Golf 1.9 ASZ PD 130 Problem...

[bora23]

I am suffering with a limp golf. I have managed to acquire a laptop with VagCom from works garages and its throwing up the following...

Address 01: Engine
Controller: 038 906 019 HJ
Component: 1,9l R4 EDC 0000SG 1576
Coding: 00002
Shop #: WSC 01271
WVWZZZ1JZ3W299485 VWZ6Z0B0364461
1 Fault Found:
17563 - Manifold Pressure Sensor (G71): Short to B+
P1155 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: N/A

I have been told by the teccies lots of diffrerent stuff like 'Its the MAF' sensor and 'Its the MAP Sensor' and my local TPS guy said that it's probably the Thrust Sensor.

Just wandered if anyone else has ever come across this problem? Oh and where is the thrust sensor???

Symptoms are simple, No turbo power at all. Just drives like a Golf SDI (eeek).

Still drives ok just no power, no black smoke, no unusual noises.

Any help would be greatful.

[tornadored7]

B23,

Your fault code suggests an electrical issue with the G71: MAP sensor, aka the Thrust Sensor and not the MAF sensor.

As its name (Manifold Absolute Pressure) suggests, it measures the air/boost pressure at the intake manifold.

Somewhat confusingly however, on an ASZ it is located in the charge air intercooler (i.e. within the engine bay, visible below the driver's side headlamp), and not in the intake manifold itself.

The general electrical issue reported is an intermittent short circuit to the battery positive, and may be due to any of the following;

• either a wiring/electrical or connector issue to the G71
• a faulty G71

Occasionally (i.e. when lifting the bonnet), rain/water has a tendency to drip onto the G71, which could possibly result in electrical issues.

To cure, I would suggest clearing the fault code, then carefully cleaning the contacts/connectors on the G71 and reconnecting.

If you still exprience issues, use a multimeter to check the wiring to the G71 and finally the resistance across the G71 itself.

A replacement ASZ MAP/thrust sensor may be required, which has VW part number;
038.906.051.C

and is available from the parts department of a VW/Audi dealer, however GSF or Euro Car Parts may also source these.

TR7

[bora23]

Hi,
Thanks for that, i have had to remove the O/S Headlamp and Bumper to even get near the top of the charge air cooler and i have also removed the plastic wheel cover on the O/S. I have also removed the washer resevoir and eventually got to the charge air cooler. I have removed the Thrust Sensor and cleaned it and replaced with the same and still no power.

Oddly enough when i removed it the terminals were corroded and the unit was full of water, i have ordered a new one from TPS but will be a 2-3 day wait.

Lets see if this cures the fault.

BTW when i removed the charge air cooler it contained oil, is this normal? Would i be wise to flush it before replacing and if so what with?

Warm Regards
Bora23

[tornadored7]

Hi B23,

Sorry for my delayed reply.

... BTW when i removed the charge air cooler it contained oil, is this normal? ...

The turbocharger has the unenviable task of spinning at angular speeds of upto 300,000 RPM (5,000 revs/second ) driven by very hot exhaust gases ( ... sounds like being in Westminster ).

Such an arduous task in an equally hostile environment requires optimally engineered high precision components, most critically so for the turbine/compressor shaft bearing.
Understandably, turbos typically use a very low friction sleeve bearing lubricated with pressurised engine oil (which also aids cooling).

Special seals are required to confine the pressurised oil within the core/centre shaft region of the turbo, which is subjected to an extreme temperature gradient;
hot exhaust gases towards the turbine side, and an influx of cold air towards the compressor.

Typically, labyrinth seals (vaguely similar to piston rings) are utilised, but inherent in their design these do allow some slight oil seepage.
On the compressor side, the oil seeps past the compressor and flows with the charged air until it is cooled, whereby some oil will condense and accumulate in the charge air intercooler.

Consequently oil in the intercooler is to be expected. I would only worry if your intercooler was over half full of oil or you weren't doing much mileage and were topping up weekly.

... Would it be wise to flush it before replacing and if so what with? ...

I have flushed a 1Z (Golf MK3) intercooler in the past. I can't quite recollect whether I used Diesel or an engine degreasing fluid to flush out most of the debris.
A small amount of Diesel is probably safer.

This was followed by repeated rinses with diluted washing up liquid, thoroughly hosed with water, and finally intensive drying with with a hair dryer, until I was certain that absolutely no more water remained.

If you do opt to flush out the intercooler ensure;

• Chemical cleaners used don't react with the engine / aluminium intercooler.
• Neutralise the intercooler with several water rinses
• To 110% dry the intercooler

Regards,
TR7

[bora23]

Today i got the change to fit the new sensor and i started her up and.... hy presto, whizz went to the turbo. Thank GOD !

I looked at how much oil was in there and there were a few drops, so i decided to leave well alone.

Now have a purring TDI again.

Thanks for all your help.

Bora23