Replacement stereo confusion

**patomlin76** · 15-10-2009,08:03 PM

I'm looking to upgrade/replace my RCD300 stereo. I can't sell the original head unit as I have no code, and I don't think they fetch that much, even on ebay.

A while ago someone posted with pics of an install of a single-din stereo. This is what I am after as I want bluetooth and proper ipod integration, but can't afford the premium for a double din headunit. You seem to get a lot more for your money with single din. The Sony BT2600 has attracted me because of its relatively good looks and decent features, including bluetooth.

I'm however slightly confused when putting together my shopping list:

so far it's the head unit, a connect2 fascia adapter (does this also include the frame required?) and a Passat -> ISO adapter. There don't seem to be many options for a single din adapter - this one is typically the most expensive at £35!

I've heard you may also need an aerial adapter - if so can anyone point me in the right direction?

thanks in advance for any help!

paul

**james_tiger_woo** · 16-10-2009,09:14 AM

Don't do single DIN!!!

Well, in my opinion anyway - it'll leave an odd hole in the dash. I thought about this myself and ended up with a Double DIN replacement:

https://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/s...ad.php?t=38059

However, I would strongly reccomend that you get a CANBus connector and not the adapter/convertor as you'll lose some functionality.

You'll also need the fascia and FAKRA (Aerial) adapter too.

**Teflon** · 16-10-2009,09:46 AM

Yep, same from me too, don't do single DIN.

I stuck £400 worth of top of the range JVC in the GTI and I keep meaning to get round to putting the old RCD300 back. Sure, I've got bluetooth and iPOD and a 30Gb USB disc connected, it will play DVD's if I want it to, it will drive screens on the back seat for kids (mine are in their 20's), it has a remote (!!??!!) and it will even take a reversing camera if I can find one that doesn't look like a wart on a witch's nose. But it's all so fiddly, slow to read disks, can't recognise more than half the tracks on the hard drive and the bluetooth function is miles behind anything made by Parrot or Nokia. And this was a pricey bit of kit, not some cheapo wannabee from Halfords.

My recommendation - Kenwood do a really tasty double DIN with satnav for about £1200. And if you must go single DIN, try and get the official VW single DIN adapter with the cubby hole in it. I got one for the Golf and it's worth asking if they do one for a Passat. Cost me about £20, looks like an original fit, much better than the shiny black plastic jobs.

**patomlin76** · 17-10-2009,09:35 AM

Originally Posted by james_tiger_woo

Don't do single DIN!!!

Well, in my opinion anyway - it'll leave an odd hole in the dash. I thought about this myself and ended up with a Double DIN replacement:

https://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/s...ad.php?t=38059

However, I would strongly reccomend that you get a CANBus connector and not the adapter/convertor as you'll lose some functionality.

You'll also need the fascia and FAKRA (Aerial) adapter too.

thanks. is the potential loss of functionality only applicable if you have steering wheel controls, which I do not?

also, the passat -> ISO connector is quite simple to find, is the aerial adapter quite standard, and if so is it just known as FAKRA?

thanks!

**Teflon** · 17-10-2009,11:14 AM

Originally Posted by patomlin76

thanks. is the potential loss of functionality only applicable if you have steering wheel controls, which I do not?

also, the passat -> ISO connector is quite simple to find, is the aerial adapter quite standard, and if so is it just known as FAKRA?

thanks!

No, the CANbus adapter is quite important if your new head unit needs a switched live feed. I didn't get one and instead took a switched live direct from the fuse box. But it isn't "intelligent" in the same way as the CANbus adapter is.

So what I now suffer is the stereo starting up from zero every time I turn the key. Wait 45 seconds to read all the tracks on the DVD. Wait 90 seconds for it to read some of the tracks on the USB hard drive. Wait 65 seconds for it to read an iPOD. If I want to pull up outside the shops while the little woman runs in I have to keep the engine running to listen to the radio, or else switch off, turn the ignition back on (and leave it on), wait 45 seconds to read ... etc. etc. Then when I turn the key to start the engine, the switched live is momentarily lost and the head unit starts again from zero. You get the picture. It's a royal pain in the gluteus medius. An adapter gives you a switched live continuously until you actually pull the key out of the slot, so it's exactly the same effect as with the RCD300.

The adapter is a little box of tricks costing £35 to £50 (look on EBay) that plugs into a live feed and the CANhigh CANlow wires in the Quadlock connector.

For the aerial, there are two plugged into the back of your RCD 300, You need a powered FAKRA adapter on either of these, with a switched live supply. If you don't have a powered version the aerial doesn't work properly and reception is pooh.

For the ISO adapter, look on the Autoleads site for a Quadlock to ISO jobbie. You will need to rewire this, because the standard VW connector has two continuous live feeds and no switched live, hence the recommendation to get a CANbus adapter.

**Cylon2007** · 17-10-2009,11:56 AM

Originally Posted by Teflon

No, the CANbus adapter is quite important if your new head unit needs a switched live feed. I didn't get one and instead took a switched live direct from the fuse box. But it isn't "intelligent" in the same way as the CANbus adapter is.

So what I now suffer is the stereo starting up from zero every time I turn the key. Wait 45 seconds to read all the tracks on the DVD. Wait 90 seconds for it to read some of the tracks on the USB hard drive. Wait 65 seconds for it to read an iPOD. If I want to pull up outside the shops while the little woman runs in I have to keep the engine running to listen to the radio, or else switch off, turn the ignition back on (and leave it on), wait 45 seconds to read ... etc. etc. Then when I turn the key to start the engine, the switched live is momentarily lost and the head unit starts again from zero. You get the picture. It's a royal pain in the gluteus medius. An adapter gives you a switched live continuously until you actually pull the key out of the slot, so it's exactly the same effect as with the RCD300.

The adapter is a little box of tricks costing £35 to £50 (look on EBay) that plugs into a live feed and the CANhigh CANlow wires in the Quadlock connector.

For the aerial, there are two plugged into the back of your RCD 300, You need a powered FAKRA adapter on either of these, with a switched live supply. If you don't have a powered version the aerial doesn't work properly and reception is pooh.

For the ISO adapter, look on the Autoleads site for a Quadlock to ISO jobbie. You will need to rewire this, because the standard VW connector has two continuous live feeds and no switched live, hence the recommendation to get a CANbus adapter.

I think you'll find it's not the switched live that is a problem in your case but the fact you don't have a permanent live which is why everytime you switch off the headunit loses it's settings. I fitted a single DIN JVC unit and took a permanent live feed off the back of the heater controls. I wasn't aware at that time I could have got it from one of the fuse boxes at the ends of the dash.

Anyway sort out a permanent live for your headunit and you'll solve the problem, what it doesn't do is allow you to listen to the radio without the ignition on.

**Teflon** · 17-10-2009,04:25 PM

Originally Posted by Cylon2007

I think you'll find it's not the switched live that is a problem in your case but the fact you don't have a permanent live which is why everytime you switch off the headunit loses it's settings. I fitted a single DIN JVC unit and took a permanent live feed off the back of the heater controls. I wasn't aware at that time I could have got it from one of the fuse boxes at the ends of the dash.

Anyway sort out a permanent live for your headunit and you'll solve the problem, what it doesn't do is allow you to listen to the radio without the ignition on.

No, the radio has a permanent live, but wants to be activated by a switched live. I don't want this connected to permanent live, If that's what I wanted I would have wired it up that way. I don't want to have to remember to switch off the radio every time I get out of the car. I definately didn't want the aerial adapter to be permanently powered, else it could flatten the battery while the car is parked up at the airport for a fortnight every year (and no, I couldn't find a switched live supply out of the back of the radio). Thanks for the suggestion anyway.

Not being able to listen to the radio without the ignition switched on is the main thing I'm complaining about!

Can't understand why you would ever take a permanent live from either the back of the heater or even the fuse box, 'cos there are two of them in the Quadblock connector to the back of the old radio. These are pins 15 and 16 yellow/red IIRC, but don't take my word for it.

**Cylon2007** · 17-10-2009,05:06 PM

If the headunit has a permanent live and it's connected to the correct pin the unit will not lose it's settings as yours is doing. All modern headunits need a permanent live that maintains the settings and a switched live that signals the unit to switch on and off with the ignition.

**patomlin76** · 18-10-2009,12:52 PM

cylon2007, are you saying then that i would need a canbus adapter, or would a plain ISO adapter do the job?

**Cylon2007** · 18-10-2009,07:09 PM

I was actually commenting on Teflon's problem with his headunit re-setting when he switches the car off. I bought a simple ISO adapter and with this I needed to supply a permanent 12v supply or when you turned off it did as Teflons. I assume with the proper Canbus adapter it should suppy both the permanent 12v and the switched 12v.