Anti-roll bar drop-links - tension/compression?

[wanstronian]

All,

I need to replace the anti-roll bar droplinks on my '99 2.5 TDi. I'm assuming that there will be some level of tension/compression between the end of the A/R bar and the lower suspension arms, that will at best make the bolts difficult to remove and at worst fracture my skull as the bolt slips out.

Can anybody tell me what to expect and the best way to go about this. My plan at the moment is to get someone to load/unload the suspension while I wiggle the bolts out, then do the same for refitting the new ones.

Is this a sensible approach? Or will the bolts just slide out like in the perfect world of Haynes manuals.... :-) ??

Thanks
W

[wanstronian]

Anybody...?

[olds_kool]

i recently removed the arb on mine to replace starter motor, jacked up both front wheels and put on axle stands, loosened nuts on links then undid the four nuts holding centre of bar, was pretty straight forward just a bit of wiggling to get bolts in and out
dont try one side at a time as it will be under tension with the other wheel still on the ground

[spartacus 68]

As suggested - raise vehicle and put on axle stands, place scissor jack under strut (and raise slightly to remove tension). Remember to wire-brush the exposed thread on the drop-link bolt, as there is a fair degree of torque required to separate. This is made worse if you damage the threads with dirt, etc.

See this link for reference. Includes pics.

http://audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74853

[wanstronian]

Top stuff - thanks guys. I'm almost looking forward to the job now!




Almost...

[wanstronian]

Well, I crawled around under my car yesterday and replaced one of the drop-links (GSF only sent one set of bolts). I replaced the noisier side.

And it's made no difference whatever. In fact, the clunking noise is, if anything, worse.

To add some background, I took the car to a garage owned by a friend of mine and his mechanic identified the knocking noise as the drop links needing replacement. Needless to say, I won't be taking my car there again, friend or not.

So I need some help in identifying the likely cause of the knocking:

1. It only happens at low speed;
2. It happens when going over bumps or dips - ie. drain covers, speed bumps;
3. It usually doesn't happen when under even the lightest power - it's most obvious when my foot's off the throttle;
4. It happens regardless of whether the brakes are being applied;
5. At 1 or 2 mpg I can dab the brake pedal and hear the knocking.

Ball joint? Track rod end?

Or is this the dreaded recall problem? The guy I bought the car from said it had been done, and anyway I thought it only affected cars up to '98? Mine's a 99.

Any help or advice appreciated.

Thanks
W

[spartacus 68]

To identify track-rod end failure - raise vehicle. Hold front wheel at ten-to-two position, and apply pressure forwards/backwards. If the track-rod end is worn you will hear a clunk, and probably see the balljoint flex.

While you're there - have a look at the upper control arms. Again, the balljoints wear and flex near the pinchbolt on the strut. Could be either the forward or rear arm, or both. It's a strut out operation to remove these arms. Fairly straight forward if the spring is compressed.

The pinchbolt can be a complete nightmare to remove. I had to get mine cut off with an oxy-acetylene torch. If you are planning to do this job yourself - give the pinchbolt a good soaking with WD40 or better still Duck Oil release a few days prior to doing the job. Wire brush the thread where possible and try not to strip the bolt head. With the nut off - it should be able to be hammered out. Mine refused to budge. Be warned.

You will need to get the tracking done on completion.

[wanstronian]

Thanks to everyone for their advice. The upper front ball joint is flexing by 2-3mm when I 'steer' the car using the wheel. It's difficult to tell where the clunking is coming from, but it appears to be from the lower rear arm, either the bush or the ball joint is work I guess.

The car has done 111k miles, and I suspect if I start replacing individual components then further problems will be exposed. So I'm thinking of getting a kit and just doing the whole lot in one go. Can anybody advise on where I can get a decent quality front end kit without paying the earth? (VAGParts.co.uk apparently do a kit but their shop has been offline for ages now, so I don't know how much it is.)

Thanks
W

[olds_kool]

avoid the ebay 'specials' and go for a meyle or febi kit, expensive but car will feel like new, vagparts is closing down according to another forum so id try a few local motor factors and see what they can get hold of, think i paid around £300 for 8 arms, 2 track ends and all new bolts made by febi (bilstein)

[wanstronian]

A friend of mine who works in the local motor factors can get me a Delphi Lockheed kit for £195 inc. vat. Less than the trade price apparently... is this a good deal?