Jacking points with a trolley jack

[Bassman]

On my old Peugeot if I need to lift the front of the car up to get to the sump nut, I use a block of wood and a trolley jack and lift from the sub-frame and then support the car using axle stands on the jacking points on the sills.

The Haynes manual for the Passat says I should not do this. Where do you guys jack the car up from if you need to lift it up completely and evenly?

I managed to change the oil tonight by lifting on one side and using an axle stand under the where the wishbone joines the subframe to be safe. I could buy a second trolley jack and lift each side, but this seems excessive.

I saw a thread where somebody lifted the rear of the car via the towing eye which doesn't sound great.

Any help would be appreciated.

Rob

[paulp]

why not buy a pair of car ramps,cheaper and safer,see ebay or halfords.

[Bassman]

why not buy a pair of car ramps,cheaper and safer,see ebay or halfords.

I have a pair of ramps and I do use them occasionally, but there are occasions when you need to lift the car and take the wheels off so you can't use a ramp.

For example changing the gearbox oil, the car needs to be level but the wheel needs to be off to access the filling hole. Changing the clutch needs the wheels off to remove both driveshafts.

I already have a decent trolley jack and stands so cost isn't an issue, just convenience.

Any other suggestions / help?

Thanks

Rob

[vincentbob]

I have had the same question myself, the Haynes manual says use axle stands under the jacking points only, but how do you raise the car to get them in ?.
Instead of axle stands I have got a number of large wooden blocks which I can get closer to the trolley jack than axle stands. I put the trolley jack pad so its middle is a couple of inches forward of the jacking point centre line, then raise the car and slide the wooden blocks in. Using this method the blocks are right up to the jacking point and the load of the car is spread over a large area. This has been fine for several large jobs and is very safe.

[grhdylan]

I have the sport model & the suspension is lower & i cant drive up the ramps without catching the underside of the bumper. My only option is jack / axle stands !

[Bassman]

I have had the same question myself, the Haynes manual says use axle stands under the jacking points only, but how do you raise the car to get them in ?.
Instead of axle stands I have got a number of large wooden blocks which I can get closer to the trolley jack than axle stands. I put the trolley jack pad so its middle is a couple of inches forward of the jacking point centre line, then raise the car and slide the wooden blocks in. Using this method the blocks are right up to the jacking point and the load of the car is spread over a large area. This has been fine for several large jobs and is very safe.

Hmm, so you lift it from one side, slide the block in and then lift from the other side and slide the block in? Aren't you at risk of the block moving when you jack from the other side?

If I only wanted to lift one side, I would jack from the sill and then use the axle stand under the bottom of the wishbone where it bolts into the subframe which should be solid enough.

Looks like there isn't a good way to life the whole car from the front unless you have two trolley jacks or a 4-post lift!!

[vincentbob]

The wooden blocks I use are about a foot square and 2" thick, I jack it up each side in turn until the wheels are off the ground. Long winded but safe and the method I used when I had the gearbox out.
For normal servicing I use ramps, mine is a sport and I use, yes; wooden ramps made of 6" x 2" about 2'6" long. I have added a couple of slats at one end which hook on the top rung of my steel ramps, and I have tapered the ends so the car drives smoothly onto them. These ramp extensions ensure that the front valance doesn't hit the ramps.

[headache56]

Rob,


I had the same problem. I have just had the car up on a trolley jack (with axle stands) fro 2 days while I changed a driveshaft.

I put my trolley jack under the place shown on theh atatched photo. http://www.flickr.com/photos/26189143@N02/2456799757/


I am no expert but it seemed to work fine.

hedache56 / Kevin

[dannyboy201062]

Hi , buy an oil syringe ( € 90 ) and you can change the oil thro the dipstick tube. Oil filter is accessable from the top of the engine. I can do the oil change ( sucking out while i change the filter ) and filter change in clean clothes in approx 30 min. That`s every 5K miles . For the 10 K service I drive my 130 sport ( low suspension ) onto two wooden blocks , about 1.5 inches thick before going onto the ramps, the bodywork will then clear the ramps. When on the ramps you can remove the under pan which reveals the crossmember where you can position the trolley jack, jack up, and replace the ramps with the axle stands at a suitable loc. When on the ramps I raise the back of the car onto axle stands, get it level and check the g/box oil. Mine needs a i/2 pint of g/box oil every 10 K with no visable leak. ....worth checking. rgds....dannyboy 201062

Rob,


I had the same problem. I have just had the car up on a trolley jack (with axle stands) fro 2 days while I changed a driveshaft.

I put my trolley jack under the place shown on theh atatched photo. http://www.flickr.com/photos/26189143@N02/2456799757/


I am no expert but it seemed to work fine.

hedache56 / Kevin

[MalcQV]

Me too.
The lower valance catches the ramps so I use a couple of pieces from old flags placed in front of the ramp. The car is lifted slightly by them before I go up the ramps.

I have just swapped around my front to rear wheels and used my trolley jack really close up to the wheel at the front, then the standard jack that came with the car at the rear. This of course only lifts one side not all the front of the car.