AAT/AEL New crank or re-grind???

[dean warren]

I'm very willing to help anyone considering an AAT/AEL rebuild. I will freely give the benefit of my experience and contacts list. Just call me on the above number or via this site.

Phil Barber

hi I'm very interested in timing on these engines, we have an aat and an ael, the aat runs very well, timing since the belt changes according to vagcom is dead on!, it does splutter and tick over a little rough sometimes, but the ael is the main concern, again belt's changed toothed crank sprocket and bolt and tensioner changed we can get it to start and run, when u set the timing on vagcom to ael 1000rpm it wont re start unless pump timing is moved, set it to ael 1200rpm and it will start but smoke.
what timing marks are you using? i have checked the marks on the ael 3 times, the cam is locked in place the bottom pulley appears to have a mark to line up with the lower timing cover, and there is a mark on the flywheel which lines up with the hole on the gearbox.
can you tell me where I've gone wrong?
we are in Dudley west mids.

[Crasher]

There is a zero on the flywheel, don't trust the front pulley mark as it may have moved due to de-bonding of the rubber damping ring.

[tut_gareth]

Exellent thread!

I'm thinking about rebuilding my AEL in the futere as it has 206k on it now and is starting to sound tractor like.
Still it's running lovely and starts fine but i'd like to improve it as it's a fantastic engine.

Cheers for the useful info.

(you may get some questions from me soon)

Regards

Gareth

[jubbly]

Looks like I need my AEL rebuilt, I've been having starting problems since we changed the timing belt and has been smoking + high rocker cover presure since day 1.

We took the head off today hoping to find that the piston rings were sized due to overheating, not the case unfortunatly.

We found piston no.1 must have hit a valve when the cambelt snapped and the head was changed by a previous owner, though the edge of the piston was damadged to and this has left a nice score down the bore.

I'm going to have to get the bottom end rebuitl, any recomendations for people in the midlands and a guess at cost?

Cheers

Paul

[Crasher]

A genuine exchange Audi bottom end is just under £1700.

[jubbly]

A genuine exchange Audi bottom end is just under £1700.

I'm not paying any where near that! I won't be going to Audi

I'll get some prices on monday.

[dean warren]

You can order them from GSF or Euro under the part number 77 244 610 for 0.25 u/s.

do you have the part number for them std size?

[scotty33]

std size Audi parts are: 034 105 701 - lower shell
034 105 701B - upper shell

I believe these are made by Kolben Schmidt, and the upper shell has its alloy coating applied by a 'sputtering' process - which gives better adherence to the steel backing than the traditional method.

[Crasher]

Standard size shells from KS are 77 244 600 and I would try not to do a regrind if possible, especially no more than 0.25 or you go through the surface treatment and the crank then wears very quickly. The correct part number for the lower shell is 034 105 701 007 @ £5.03 each and the upper shell is 034 105 701 B 40Z @ £12.23 each so £86.15 for genuine bearings. The set from KS is much cheaper and still features the Sputter coated upper shell.

[dean warren]

Standard size shells from KS are 77 244 600

are these avaliable from Euro car parts? or is there somewhere else you recomend? the crank doesn't need a regrind, but new shells will be fitted, also can these blocks be sleved? or is it a rebore and + sized pistons??