A3 2-0 TDi CRBC timing , amongst other issues

[hayek]

Thanks for your interest.

Google Photos


Google Photos

Google Photos

I have a 2013 2.0 TDi CRBC engine that was in a flood and bought as does not run- i bought the car for the panels.

Anyway, i tried turning it over by hand and it moved so i drained oil- no water. i removed glow plugs. one was snapped when i went in there and this gave me hope that previous person gave up here as it was not cost effective. i got that out, then turned it over with plugs out- dry. compression tested 24-27-23-22. Turned it over - crank but no start. Checked fuel to HPFP- all good. Checked solenoid again all good. No codes at all. Crank but no start. Checked throttle flap with OBD eleven and functions as it should. Crank no start. Removed exhaust near the throttle flap, it fired but no run. removed the MAF sensor and it ran, but with low power and with a grinding sound like a pulley bearing going wrong ( you can hear it in the video). Shut it down. Had a look round everything seemed fine. Until i looked underneath and oil was exiting from the crankshaft seal. Hmmmm. i thought it was dead, but a friend suggested it could have slipped a couple of teeth on the timing and that this was common in flood cars and the seal going also a common symptom of timing being out.

So long story to get to the point, but i thought a bit of history may help.

I have the timing belt and pulleys exposed. apart from oil on belt all appears as it should. So i locked the crank with the tool and tried to pin the cam and fuel pump. They are ever so slightly out as in the pin kind of locates but kind of doesn't - its that close. The tensioner is in the tensioner tolerance albeit a little up and left as opposed to down and right.

Is this close enough to be timed correctly?

I might add i have never done any of this before and am a YouTube warrior. I do have some competence, but am no qualified mechanic.

If the cam or fuel pump needs to be bob on and pinned, how the hell do i adjust it? the crank is pinned with the tool. do i undo the torx on the cam and the main pulley wheel so that it 'floats'. Same with the fuel pump? that's the scary bit to me.

Is it worth me replacing the crank seal and getting a new timing kit. collectively that's a fair bit of money, i am hoping the link to the vid works so you can see how close.

When turned over by hand it moves freely enough with compression apparently in the right places.

[chimp400]

This any help?
VW AUDI 1.4, 1.6, 2.0TDI 2012/3 Onwards TIMING BELT HOW TO - YouTube
Most cars like this people know there are some bent valves etc thats why they are punted on.

[hayek]

yes, that is informative on the holding tool and some extra tips. Nice one.

[hayek]

If you check 11 seconds on my third google video you will see that the marks on the fuel pump are different to your mans at 36mins.59 sec. I like the way he explains things. very helpful. This at least gives me hope that the fuel pump is out and i will take a look at this over the next week. The alternative is...well, I'm not sure, but probable bent valves from said flood.

[chimp400]

Ive only worked on the older CR engine, fuel pump timing from memory on that was not critical but you always stuck to the book on setting up. That one threw its shredded auxilliary belt into the cam belt area making it jump teeth, i reset the timing but no cigar.
Turned out the drive gears on the cams had moved throwing the timing out, i bought a recon head with cams for it.
Pistons had obviously struck valves but it wast evident any were bent.

[hayek]

An update on this- it was terminal and i ended up selling the engine for parts. thanks for the replies.