Key won't start car. Key won't fully turn in iginition. Audi A3 8P.

[HowdyA3]

Hi, I have an issue that I hoping that this kind community could advise on. Yesterday, after leaving work I went to start my car (Audi A3 8P) and the key wouldn't turn in the ignition to start the car up. This is the first time that this has happened. I've had to leave the car in the carpark until Monday as it's locked over the weekend, so I'm trying to research if there's anything I can do myself.

I've had a look at some YouTube videos, where the steering wheel lock was the issue and wiggiling the steering wheel while turning the key resolved the issue. Unfortunetly I'm having no such luck. I have had the steering wheel lock come on previously years ago, but that was a one off, where wiggling the steering wheel worked. I've had no issues turning the key previously. I did notice that my car was starting to take a little longer to turn over but assumed that's due to the colder weather.

The key twists a tiny amount when I put it in, but seems to be jammed turning further, when turning the key, the car radio barely comes on, as in it comes on and turns off, that may be beacuse I'm rocking the key back and forth (I can't remember fully). I had some WD-40 Silcone spray that I used the red straw that comes with it to spray into the key barrel, and on the key as I seen that in another video.

Also my steering wheel seems to move slightly with force (maybe about 3cm down/up) but it didn't feel like the wheels were moving, when pulling down or up it's like I was forcing the sterring wheel but it was moving. If the streering wheel lock was on would there be any play or not? as in, would it move?

Also, I'm trying to get my head around the part names, is the first part of the ignition, where the key inserts called the "iginition switch"? I seen the video where people take that out when they twist the key to line up with a pin hole to remove that part, using a paper clip. The videos I seen don't show it fully but I see the description. I'm not sure if my key will twist that far or not. But if it does do you think it's something I should check?

Any advice or troubleshooting tips appreciated.

[Crasher]

This is a very common problem on all PQ35 platform cars and is usually the lock. The best solution is to buy the replacement lock unit 1K0 905 841 for £176.73 retail inc VAT plus the two shear bolts N 905 845 02 at £1.92 each. Cut the fitted bolt heads with a slot so you can take them out with a flat blade and then use a fine wire to get down inside the lock and release the barrel, DO NOT damage the barrel or you are in a world of pain. An important not do not play with the new locking mechanism with the barrel out, they instantly flick over inside and are then useless, £176 gone with a click. We have even had lock units come from TPS where they have been flicked and returned for credit… takes some explaining even for us, for you no chance so I would even be tempted to ask the dealer to install the barrel in the lock for a few pounds.

[HowdyA3]

Thanks for the information. Is the second picture showing the pin going through the lock? I found the below video on YouTube, which is simlar accept the key was stuck in the ignition. I take it all the steps shown in this video would need to be followed. Dicoonect battery, remove air bag, remove steering wheel and than the steering wheel surround.

My car's at my work car park, with parking spaces either side of my car. If only this happened at home instead of at work. I would need to take any tools with me, I ordered a spline kit which someone mentioned might be needed for the job (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Spline-Sock...dp/B08DLJDXJ5/). It looks like a big job too me, is there anything that I could mess up when taking all the steering wheel related parts off? or as long as I put it back on how I took it off it should be okay? Other than a drill to take off the two shear bolts N 905 845 02, I seen someone mention to use a chisel and hammer?

if I bought the replacement parts how much do you think a mobile mechanic or car locksmith would charge?


2009 Audi A3 ignition cylinder replacement VW jetta passat - YouTube

Is it probably best to get the original one from Audi? or would something like the below options perhaps work? hmmm, sometimes these aftermarket parts end up causing more hassle, don't they lol I should learn my lesson from the faulty aftermarket window regulator that I got from GSF... but that may have been an one off?

Someone also mentioned that they used this part when replacing on their car, part number 1K0905865B (Steering Lock Ignition Starter Switch Housing - VW Audi Seat Skoda 1K0905851B)

Steering Lock Ignition Starter Switch Housing – VW Audi Seat Skoda 1K0905851B


Found in a wide variety of VW Audi group models from years 2004 to 2019 this ignition switch and barrel housing is a direct replacement for OE part with number 1K0905851 / A / B / D. The ignition starter switch supplied with the assembly is part number 1K0905865B.

A1 [2011-2019]
A3 8P [2004-2009]
Q3 [2012-2019]

I see there is this one too upon searching, but it is out of stock.

https://justgermanparts.co.uk/product/ignition-steering-lock-assembly-starter-switch-vw-audi-seat-skoda-1k0905851b/

[HowdyA3]

Hi, I called around a few locksmiths/mobile mechanics, only got through to two. One said if I could take the barrel out I could bring it down to them, as their mobile person is busy for the next few days but they said I could send him a whatapp message describing my problem to see if/when he could fit me in. Another said it sounded like I need a replacement lock barrel and to buy the part and then arrange for him to come out. I called Audi parts and told them the issue and asked how much replacement ignition would cost. The person on the phone told me the part is called "lock cylinder for ignition starter switch" and cost £259.08. I asked for the part number which he gave to me as 107905855CF, as he gave to me he mentioned that it would need to be coded to the chassis number? I asked a few more questions about is this part also referred to as a "replacement lock unit", he said there's only one main part that needs to be changed so it should be the part. I asked him how much the coding would cost, he wasn't sure and went to check, when he came back he said that he spoke to a mechanic who said that when you can't turn the key you have to cut the steering lock out of the cylinder. I writ down some notes as he was talking so not too sure if I got everything right, but he said 2 parts required then I noted down underneath steering lock, cylinder and 2 bolts. I then also think that he said the "lock cylinder for ignition starter switch" wouldn't need to be coded. I tried to clarify that and it sounded like he said again it didn't need coded.

What's your thought's Crasher?

[HowdyA3]

I've tried a pick, screwdriver, and punch but I could not get the left shear bolt to turn. I've spent many hours attempting. Today, I bought a right angle drill and used my drill bits for metal from my bosch set.


Quick question. What is the security bolt made of material wise? My drill bits for metal, are taking ages to make a hole. Spent about 4 hours, 2 different parts of the day. to get around 3mm to 4mm max deep hole.


Is there any sort of drill bit that's recommended for tackling these shear bolts?


Had a 1 and 1.5 drill bit snap, but pushing them down at a slight angle. Tried some scew removal bolts I borrowed but I think I didn't drill deep enough, tried another set that I bought aswell but, had the same issue. The drilling end of the ones I borrowed barely dug deeper than what ever hole I made with the drill pieces.


I'll upload some pictures, my forearms are in pain lol

[HowdyA3]

First picture is at it's latest stage, not that clear as I took it when it was getting dark. The second picture is off the removal tools, third pictur is a picture from Monday, before I had the drill and I was trying to use the screwdriver, pick and punch. Oh yeah on the third picture I sprayed pentrating fluid, but no joy.

20231219_174230.jpg20231219_174238.jpg20231218_112734.jpg

[Crasher]

The screw is 8.8 steel from memory. If they mess me around I cover the surrounding area with a fire blanket just exposing the lock and use a disc cutter to make a slot for flat blade screwdriver but to do this the switch set has to come off.

[HowdyA3]

Thanks, I grabbed a couple of Cobait drill bits from the local hardware store in the morning, after much more drilling I was able to get the nut out with screw extractors. It was much easier to drill with these than what I was using before. Getting the left bolt out was a real mission.

I've finally got the ignition barrel out. Is it a case of just shaking, banging the old one to hope whatever is jamming it, comes loose? so I can then twist the key in the "107905855CF: Key fob transponder" to the "pin" release position, as my key only turns about 3 mm's.

Also, I just wanted to check if I get the "107905855CF: Key fob transponder" out, when I put it in the new barrel, does the key have to be in the "ON" position? when inserting to the new barrel. And can I test the key in the barrel, once the transponder is seated in the barrel or does it have to be plugged back into the car first? I would like to check it works before putting everything back together and finding out it doesn't work.

[HowdyA3]

Here's a look at the nightmare bolt!

20231220_133131.jpg

[Crasher]

Hopefully you will be able to get the slot into position but I have had to carefully cut the lock off painfully slowly to avoid damage which is why, given time, I prefer to order the full unit. Once the barrel is snapped in place into the lock you can test it but not with the barrel out.