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Thread: Car won't start - Immobiliser active

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  1. Car won't start - Immobiliser active 
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    My key broke at the hinge bit so the blade and the fob were in two bits. My dad had an old vw golf mkv key fob, so put the old key blade on the new top half of the fob and joined it with the bottom half of the old fob.

    Now my car won't start and has "immobiliser active safe" on the display. The fob still unlocks and locks the car.

    What do I need to do fix this, please help as I need the car to get to work
     
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  2. Re: Car won't start - Immobiliser active 
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    The key needs to be coded to the immobiliser, at present that will be difficult as nothing is open.

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  3. Re: Car won't start - Immobiliser active 
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    could this be done on the carista app?
     
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  4. Re: Car won't start - Immobiliser active 
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    Ask Google I don't know, sorry.

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  5. Re: Car won't start - Immobiliser active 
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    Quote Originally Posted by apache24uk View Post
    My key broke at the hinge bit so the blade and the fob were in two bits. My dad had an old vw golf mkv key fob, so put the old key blade on the new top half of the fob and joined it with the bottom half of the old fob.

    Now my car won't start and has "immobiliser active safe" on the display. The fob still unlocks and locks the car.

    What do I need to do fix this, please help as I need the car to get to work
    Look inside your old fob (or hold it close to ignition), aswell as check the area where it broke for a missing chip (transponder). Transponder chip can fall out of the case when opened.
     
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  6. Re: Car won't start - Immobiliser active 
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    No Carista will not do this nor will VCDS. The only correct way is to use the VW dealer software ODIS with GEKO security access and the VAG system in Germany does the job online, you can’t see any info such as codes any more, the SKC as it was known. There are aftermarket system such as VAG TACHO which professional key specialists use but it is very hit and miss which is why I went through the hurdles of getting ODIS approval, and it is still hard work programming in things like used instruments. As the other chap said the best way for you is to swap over the chip from one key to another. These are tiny glass vials about the size of a grain of rice housed in the lower section of the key and are extremely fragile, if you break it you will need a new chip programming into the instruments.
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  7. Re: Car won't start - Immobiliser active 
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    Them little glass chips will be glued in just put a hair dryer on it for two minutes an put it into new key or just put old key shell in glovebox and you should be good to go
     
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  8. Re: Car won't start - Immobiliser active 
    #8
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    I had new keys cut and coded for my 1998 A4, but the specialist who did the job needed an original key, with functioning chip, which his equipment could copy.

    He had one device to read the code and copy to a new chip, and a machine which automatically cut the key from digital information (not jut a key copier as found in hardware shops).

    He previously tried to get the key info' from the ECU, before realising that my car used an older coding system.

    He said that VAG could no longer provide codes for older cars, as they had been lost/destroyed.

    The chip in my keys is in the plastic top part of the key, there is no hinge or separate fob, and the chip falls out if the plastic part is opened.

    I do not have remote locking. The button on the plastic bit operates a little LED, which is of no real use to find the keyhole or anything else, but was proably an expensive extra when the car was made

    EDIT: I hope you didn't throw your old fob away, as did an unfortunate French owner on one of the forums here
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  9. Re: Car won't start - Immobiliser active 
    #9
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    Yes, yours will have the earlier, very sturdy, plastic chip, the later glass vial ones look like an insect pupa.

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  10. Re: Car won't start - Immobiliser active 
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    Thanks for the replys. Found the transponder
     
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