1.9 tdi juddering

[arman123]

I wouldn't do a solid flywheel on a diesel cost of dmf and clutch is about £500 to £600 for a LUK setup but I would get it up on the ramps and see if any movement in the gearbox mount as for clutch change yes I think driveshaft can be bolted off the box as for how hard it is to do I have no idea I had mine don't at local clutch center if any movement in the gearbox mount get it changed don't get genuine gearbox mount then you will need to change the crossmember as well as its an updated part and won't fit your original crossmember also get the clutch fluid change could have air in it when was the brake clutch fluid last changed ?

[MiniMental]

I picked up a full LUK genuine clutch kit and DMF for a B5.5 Passat from ECP last year cost me £360 with their usual 30% discount.... you will also want a crank oil seal and some gasket sealant which you should so whilst Flywheel is off..

Not a hard job to do. Just fiddly. I've had my gearbox off four times on axle stands, takes me about two hours to get off now, and three to change dmf/clutch and put it all back...

Driveshafts can be unbolted easy, but you will need a decent M10 12point spline bit to get them off. You will also need 12point spline bits to get Flywheel off and on again, which is tight tight so get a decent set...


2005 Passat Variant PD175 ..

No school like the old school...

[monty9120]

thanks all. fluid is very clean so has been changed recently. where is the clutch slave so i can bleed it

just done 300 miles its not too bad but still judders. if i accelerate hard especially when it hits boost i get a kind of judder when it takes up drive. is this linked?

im sure the clutch has been replaced but no mention of a flywheel i dont think

mini mental. have you got a step by step what i need to do for the clutch change, always changed with the engine sideways rather then long ways

[MiniMental]

This is from memory and from a B5.5 Passat 5 speed AWX/FHN-GGB but should mostly be there, Others may do thing differently but this is the method I have used with the equipment I have available, Served me four times so can complain haha.

1. Battery off, remove engine covers and undertray, car on decent axle stands as high as you can get it..

2. Remove bridge intake pipe from across the back of the engine, be sure to unclip all sensors and vacuum lines, its tricky to get out but if you drop it down by passenger side driveshaft you should be able to manipulate it out from the top. secured by EGR pipe, Pipe from intercooler and 1x M6 bolt next to coolant tank/fuel filter. Also helps to remove airbox.

3. Remove three screws from coolant tank and swing it forward out of the way, makes things easier...

4. Looking down by passenger driveshaft hub, Tranny end, You will see speed sender wiring and reverse sensor conector along with slave cylinder. Remove both connectors by releasing the small spring clip.

5. Undo M8 Allen bolt (6mm allen key) holding in slave cylinder and remove the slave by pulling backwards and twisting it out towards passenger side, Swing it out of the way for now. Personally, I don't disconnect the hydraulics, Not nice having it dripping when your gonna spend the next three hours underneath the car.

6. Remove RHS driveshaft hub shield (secured with Three M8 Cap head bolts) An absolute PITA to reach, I use two long 3/8" drive extensions

7. Remove 12x M8 Driveshaft flange bolts. These require a 12point spline bit, Use a decent one, you do not want to strip these out... Once removes, tap the driveshaft hub flanges free (doesn't take much) and swing them out of the way.

8. Underneath the car, at the rear top of the gearbox on Drivers side, there are two linkages. One has an M6 Bolt (selector shaft) and one has a round bushing with an M8 Cap-head Bolt in the centre. The latter is a PITA to get out, you need ideally a stubby 6mm allen bit and a ratchet spanner as there is very limited space between the bolt head and the side of the tunnel. Remove both of these bolts and pull the selector rod off the shaft.

9. Starting from the top of the gearbox under the bonnet, From passenger to drivers side... Undo the bolts holding the bell housing onto the block. Remember where these come out as they are all different sizes! You will need 16mm, 18mm, 19mm spanners and sockets. A flexi head ratchet works wonders at the back of the block. But be careful not to yank on any hoses or wiring looms. there's a lot back there. There should be four bolts from left to right. One is under the injector harness, one is just to the drivers side of the tandem pump. These both have cable brakets on and can be a bit fiddly.

10. Underneath, there are another two bolts on the drivers side holding starter motor on, one of these has a nut on the back, lower one iirc undo them both but leave the one with the nut in with the nut loose. (prevents you dropping gearbox later when you start pulling it off.

11. There are four bolts directly above the sub-frame which are 16mm head and are a pain to get to, I found with a combination spanner I can get them just from the front side of the sub-frame... the far left one has a nut on the back... there is also another bolt just up on the LHS ( I'm sure you will see all these when you are looking at it)

12. Once they are all removed, ratchet strap the exhaust over to drivers side of the car ( there's a hole somewhere near the sill you can hook the end of a strap into, I have never had any issues doing it like this.)

13. Get a jack setup underneath the gearbox, i've found that the C.O.G. of the FHN/GGB 5 speed boxes is pretty much on the seam in line with the mounts. Undo the bottom nuts of the gearbox mounts and take up the weight of the box enough that the mounts lift slightly..

14. Undo the M10 bolts holding the mount brackets onto the side of the box... I had my mate help here, though as long as your using a decent jack and have secured it properly, box should be held in the middle by tunnel...

15. Once removed, the box can be slid back into the tunnel and off the engine, can be a bit of a pain but not overly difficult. I did find that my snub mount is a bit soft which allowed the engine to tilt backwards, I remedied this by wedging a piece of wood between the subframe and the block, worked wonders.

Putting it back is the reverse of the above (captain obvious strikes again), make double sure you don't catch and hoses or cables... its ridiculously hard to see the top of the bell-housing, I thought I had gearbox on last time I had it off but it wouldn't sit flush, turned out I had trapped starter cable in between the B/H and the block.... glad I disconnected battery... haha.. If you remove flywheel make sure you replace the bolts, they are very very tight and need a decent M12 12point bit. Probably worth doing crankseal as well...

That's about it from memory.... Feel free to PM or whatever if you get stuck. Sure you'll be fine though.

Clutch is 6 bolts holding on pressure plate, Flywheel has 6x M12 fine bolts which are 12point spline... They are tight, I made a steel bar to hold flywheel with to get them undone, I'm sure you can find a way to wedge it, just try not to damage engine casings... IIRC Pressure plate bolts are 25nm and Flywheel bolts are 65nm + 90deg but don't quote me, ill confirm this later if needs be but my book of torques is in the car hahaha.

Hope this helps? If you have one, Haynes manual is an asset...

Aidan

[monty9120]

been a month or 2. car seems to drive ok

just done a 140 mile trip. came off the motorway and pulled off to judder so doesnt seem to matter about being in traffic etc. its when the cars warm

i still get a tiny bit of engine bouncing at idle. no where as much as before