Touran 1.9 TDI to buy or not to buy

[SteveB77]

Hi I have about 5000 to spend and was looking at buying a Touran 1.9 TDI I need some advice as the internet is a minefield and there is such a mixed bag of reviews it's quite daunting.
I would really appreciate some honest opinions and tips what to look out for and what to avoid.
Many thanks

[boomboomer]

Avoid the mk1 totally, there are too many issues to list and your budget should easily get you a mk2, 2007 or later.

The 2.0 td is a better engine, but avoid any fitted with a particulant filter.

Make sure it has a full service history and the cambelt & water pump has been changed every 5 years minimum.

If everything works and there are no driving issues then you should be okay provided you service it regularly.

[WillUK]

i would avoid mk1 as well. i still have it because i spent too much on it already, including gearbox failure,turbo, snapped rear springs, both radiator fans packed up... the list goes on and on, mine is 05 plate bkc 1.9 77kw. the engine itself i was told its bulletproofed.

[Gazwould]

Unlike the similar 1.9 BXE which is not bullet proof.

[Rob69]

Hi
I've just sold a 2004 MK1 1.9 105PS which I owned and home maintained for nearly 5 years.
I'd say avoid MK1's, (think I was pretty lucky with mine) 2 litres ( I know too many people who've had 2 litre engine and turbo trouble in touran and golfs) and avoid DPF's.

Stand behind the car and look out for camber on the rear wheels as sign of soggy rear suspension bushes, look for worn inner edges of tyres on rear, under the car rust on the boot floor. Clunks and rattles from the suspension, front ARB bushes and links, front console bushes. Check for broken coil springs top turn of the coil. Make sure engine temp comes up to 90 by about 10 mins driving and sits bang on. No misfires or clutch / flywheel rattles, starts first turn of the key. Look for oil drippping out of turbo intercooler in / out pipes into engine bottom tray at bottom NS front of engine bay. Remove the plastic engine cover and look for fuel leaks around the tandem pump at the right hand end of the cylinder head, check coolant colour and level, should be bright pink, check oil level and filler cap for emulsion. Avoid anything with ESP or ABS warning lights and don't get fobbed off with excuses of an easy fix. You can remove the top cover off the timing belt with a bit fiddling and confirm if belt looks like it has been changed in line with service stamps. Check all windows and central locking work, check alarm works, radio etc. Look for rotten brake disc splash guards coming adrift and catching the discs, rear brakes wear pretty quick on these. There is a Webasto auxilliary diesel fired heater which helps heat up the engine quicker in winter, this is located behind the bumper on bottom OS next to the screen wash bottle. These can smoke like mad in winter, or they lock out if the fuel tank level is allowed to drop too low. Look out for rust bubbling up round rear number plate lights and front wings, you might get it done under warranty unless previous owner has touched it up.
See if you can get a VCDS scan done and see what comes up on that.

What needed doing on ours between 46 - 107,000 miles:
Both rear brake calipers replaced,
Discs and pads all round, brake disc splash plates replaced. rear pads done again
Alarm module burnt out somehow, VCDS showed alarm sounder battery fault.
Main Battery replaced at 9 years old ( can't complain about that!)
Timing belt at 44,000, just before I got it and second time with pump at 90,000
Webasto unlocked with VCDS ( low fuel lockout)
replaced OSF coil spring
Normal 10,000 mile servicing, brake fluid changes, etc.

Not too bad really - it was a practical family car, we used it for towing a camping trailer and small boat, The clutch /engine / gearbox were fine when I sold it, body was showing signs of family use / abuse and tesco door dings. panels are thin and seem to dent easily. Headlights were steaming up in winter but dried out ok in better weather. Everything apart from alarm worked on it. I think compared to the alternatives in this class the touran is the best of the bunch.

[webley]

Like Rob 69 says I agree with all the above.
Make sure its got a good service History,They need good maintenance.
Buy yourself a VCDS cable,nearly as essential as a good socket set on modern VWs.

We only use ours for holidays and long trips where it comes into its own,Comfortable and easy to drive.
Ours is the 100bhp AVQ engine and is adequate(Bit under powered on Motorways)

Since we got it I have replaced,

OSF spring and top mount bearing.
NS front wheel bearing.
Thermostat
Rear bump stops.
All brake pads.

I use Castrol Edge full synthetic 5/40 oil and only good quality diesel.

Nearly forgot it had to have a new power steering rack before we picked it up(Luckily)
If the steering warning light comes on it may be just the wheel not been central.

All in all a great car and would have another.