Another Tiptronic Fault

[cieranc]

Hi All, new here and just bought a 52 plate Allroad, 2.5 Quattro 180.
Rather than hijack Wills current thread, thought I'd start a new one. Yet another Tiptronic gearbox query.

Starts up fine, idles right. Shift from Park into Drive or Reverse and get a solid red bar on the display. It makes no noise so I suspect it isn't even trying to go into gear.
Switch ignition off, move to Neutral, start up, shifts, indicates and selects gears fine.

It's been checked out by the last owners local garage, as much as they can fathom, moving from P causes a spike at the TCM, putting it into limp mode. They advised the last owner that the TCM needs replacing, so he just got used to starting, switching off then starting again from neutral.

Driving it, it does seem to hesitate to change up when it's cold. Either hot or cold, in the towns it seems to kick-down with even the lightest tap of the throttle. I don't know if it's too twitchy or just a quirk of the car. I suspect an oil change (over 150k and no record of an oil change) may help, this is on the 'to do' list.

Has anyone come across the electrical shifting fault before? Is it likely to mean a new TCM, or could it be switches or wiring?

Thanks, Cieran

[ceilidhalfie]

First thing to do is get scan done for fault codes. My 52 Allroad now done 175k with still the "lifetime" Transmission Fluid in it! Consensus is unless mechanical issue do not change the TF.

[cieranc]

OK thanks, I'll get my pal to drop his Texa machine on it when I get home (I work abroad).
I'm guessing these can be read through the OBD 2 socket?

[DGSdale]

First thing to do is get scan done for fault codes. My 52 Allroad now done 175k with still the "lifetime" Transmission Fluid in it! Consensus is unless mechanical issue do not change the TF.

Have to disagree about not changing the oil. Can only think its a myth started by the fact that Audi say it's 'filled for life' which is particularly odd given that ZF, the manufacturers of the 'box state the oil should be changed every 50,000 - 75,000miles. http://www.zf.com/brands/content/en/...hange-oil.html
BMW use the same gearbox and have a scheduled oil change. I rang Audi UK a few years ago, before having the oil changed on my previous A6 and asked how long was a 'lifetime.' The answer was ' errr....I don't know! I've just had the oil changed in the 'box of my latest A6. There was nothing horrendous about the oil that came out (115,000miles) and no metallic 'whiskers' on the magnets but it was certainly very black and probably well out of viscosity. Also give some consideration to the state of the filter. If you change the oil and filter in the engine why would you not do the same for the gearbox? Especially given that it arguably has more 'duties' to carry out than the oil in an engine.

[cieranc]

OK, just got home and set about this car with a VCDS Lite.
Codes are:
18161 - Tiptronic switch (f189) Implausible signal P1753-35-00 -
18265 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs P-1857 - 35 - 10 Intermittant

And in the Engine module, in case it's related:
00575 Intake Manifold Pressure
08-10 Control Limit Surpassed - Intermittent
00550 - Shareware 08-10 intermittent


I have a copy of ElsaWin, but I can't see where the DTC's are defined, so am struggling a bit with the codes themselves.

A little more history, last owner had the switch/actuator on the side of the gearbox changed, this didn't cure the fault.
I lifted the drivers carpet expecting (and maybe even hoping) to find it flooded, but it was bone dry and the TCM showed no sign of having been wet - nice clean pins.
I lifted the cover for the shift mechanism, looks like it's been butchered about a bit, clips broken etc. I haven't removed/stripped this yet.

Any pointers or interpretations of the fault codes would be much appreciated.

[ceilidhalfie]

Re 00575 Intake Manifold Pressure Exceeded - Intermittent, I also had this fault for about 3 years on my 2002 Allroad AKE 2.5 Auto. Never noticed any performance issue but
eventually tracked it down to a faulty N75 valve (the one nearest the fuel filter). VCDS has never shown fault since.
Re changing gearbox oil, you need to have access to post lift or pit to do it correctly - car has to be level and top up filler hole is awkward. As my gearbox is running just as sweet as day one after 175k, I intend leaving well alone.

[cieranc]

Ahh cheers for that,
I meant to add, I've found a dealer receipt for gearbox oil change @98k miles

[mikeybutch]

Just to add that my A4 has had the ATF changed by Audi cos a helper undid the wrong plug when we were doing a service.Both of us agree it drives better but it wasn't bad before.Since found that its not unusual for owners to do a change on the basis that the original fluid cant last for ever.Reminds me a little of an 80s Accord I had where there was no mention in the thick workshop manual of a cambelt change so it was left until it snapped at 135k but luckily no internal damage

[cieranc]

Hi All,
I've had a bit of time to check this out a bit more, and can clarify the fault a little better:
Start engine and shift from Park to Reverse, reverse engages and it does reverse, no fault on the display.
Shift again to Drive (or from Park to Drive), it engages gear and drives normally, but has the solid bar on the dash. When this happens, the Tip buttons don't work on the steering wheel.

Switch off, shift to Neutral, start up from Neutral and it engages drive and reverse and drives normally with no red bar on the dash.

Brake interlock works as it should, shifter won't move without brake pressed and the light on the shift console works.
I've had the circuit board apart under the shifter stick, magnets are attached where they should be and no signs of circuit board damage.

I've checked the loom connections down to the solenoid - all seem clean and a good tight fit.


Is there anything else I should be checking? I really don't want to shell out for a TCM !
Or would anyone know where I can find instructions on checking the F189 switch with VCDS Lite?

[ceilidhalfie]

Have you seen this on the web:

"Learned something new today....
For those of you with tiptronic trans, if your PRNDL display blocks out and you have the inplausible signal DTC, here is something to check (for what it is worth, I seem to only run into this with the NB)...
The tiptronic switch asm uses HAL sensors and magnets. There are two magnets, a very tiny brick shapped one, a cyclinder shaped one. The cyclinder shaped one is in a little bracket that slides/snaps to a plastic carrier strip. What will happen is the bracket that holds the cyclinder magnet will pop loose and move back about 1mm, just enough to screw with you.
I had a brand new car with that DTC, my wiring tested out perfect. I order a new Tip switch and install... same issue. Hmmm... maybe I got a dud out of the box, order another switch... again, same problem. Turns out ALL THREE OF THEM had the same problem. I took the tiptronic switch asm all apart (simple, just snapped together) and put a dot of superglue on the cyclinder magent bracket and snapped it into place. Did this to all three of the tip switches, now they all work perfect.
So, before you run off and replace said switch, check that cyclinder shaped magnet, see if you can push it in (the bracket is kind of "wedge" shape), if you push in on it (towards the center of the asm), you should feel it click into place and the edge will be even/flush with the part it is fitted to.
On this same topic, Phaeton and Touareg owners have discovered that the little sliding plastic plate that holds the magnets can be very, very easily broken if the technician is not careful when inserting the chrome plastic base of the shift lever handle.
There are some photos of the part, and discussion about how it gets broken, at this post: Retrofitting Keyless Start to a North American Phaeton - look about halfway down the second page of the thread."