1994 Coupe ACE 16v wont start

**bungle74** · 24-01-2015,05:54 PM

Hi All

The rotor arm on my 94 16v ACE engines coupe blew itself apart a couple of weeks ago as discovered by the very nice man from the AA (eventually). I've replaced this and the dizzy cap as this was damaged by the aforementioned rotor arm. However, whilst the engine is turning and fuel is getting to the spark plugs the car just won't start. I'm guessing that no spark is being delivered to the plugs hence no firing up.

I took the leads of the dizzy cap and put them on the new one so that I put them back in the right places but wonder if the man from the AA moved them about when he was looking at it. I say this as he took the plugs out to check they were ok and then tried to start the car without the ignition leads back on the plugs. Could this be a potential issue? I've tried to find a diagram of which lead goes to which point on the dizzy cap but have had no success.

If anyone has a diagram or can tell me which plug connects to which connector on the dizzy I would be more than grateful. I'm a the end of my tether with it and need to get it running for Monday morning.

Cheers

Lee

**SammoVWT** · 25-01-2015,03:06 PM

Originally Posted by bungle74

Hi All

The rotor arm on my 94 16v ACE engines coupe blew itself apart a couple of weeks ago as discovered by the very nice man from the AA (eventually). I've replaced this and the dizzy cap as this was damaged by the aforementioned rotor arm. However, whilst the engine is turning and fuel is getting to the spark plugs the car just won't start. I'm guessing that no spark is being delivered to the plugs hence no firing up.

I took the leads of the dizzy cap and put them on the new one so that I put them back in the right places but wonder if the man from the AA moved them about when he was looking at it. I say this as he took the plugs out to check they were ok and then tried to start the car without the ignition leads back on the plugs. Could this be a potential issue? I've tried to find a diagram of which lead goes to which point on the dizzy cap but have had no success.

If anyone has a diagram or can tell me which plug connects to which connector on the dizzy I would be more than grateful. I'm a the end of my tether with it and need to get it running for Monday morning.

Cheers

Lee

Ninja post, couldnt even read it - changed the colour in the quote for you.

Did the AA man check if spark was coming out of the leads when he put the new rotor arm in?

I would think the coil would probably be knackered if the rotor arm has cracked or "blown up" - suggests that the wear on the dizzy cap was significant and has gotten hot due to the extra voltage required for spark to travel. I have had this happen with a broken ignition lead, caused the terminal on the dizzy cap to become oxidized greatly to the point where it cracked the pin from the lead going into the dizzy cap connection.

Simplest one is to check the 'king' lead from the dizzy is plugged into the coil and distributor cap securely first cap in the centre. Failing a simple test of power output to the plugs, you might need a scan to find your fault. Could have affected something else. I assume AA man also checked the state of the battery/alternator?

**Crasher** · 25-01-2015,05:26 PM

Originally Posted by SammoVWT

Ninja post, couldnt even read it -

Must be Zippy playing games again.....

zippy-and-bungle.jpg

**bungle74** · 02-02-2015,09:48 AM

Sorry for the delay in posting back, I haven't had chance to get back out under the bonnet. But, I've finally got around to taking the dizzy cap off and the new rotor arm has cracked on the shaft which may be why it still won't start. I've got a new one on order so fingers crossed it'll work once I've fitted this. Weirdly on the ACE engine you have to superglue the rotor arm onto the dizzy shaft as they don't have any locating slots. How am I supposed to know if the rotor arm is in the right place or does the engine timing auto adjust itself?

**Crasher** · 02-02-2015,10:57 AM

I don't remember the 6A/ACE distributor not having an alignment slot, I am pretty sure it does but the official line from Aud is as per the Golf 2 16v which uses a very similar distributor, you are supposed to replace the distributor. Since I first experienced this in the late 80's on the Golf 2 16v, we all know that you use rotor arm VAG part number 052 905 225 C and that they do not have to be glued on, I never have in 26 years and have not experienced any problems. We are just fitting a close relative of the ACE (the 9A) into a Spanish Golf 2 as I type this and we are using a genuine VW exchange distributor to assure reliability when it goes back to Majorca and this has the arm glued on.

**bungle74** · 02-02-2015,12:38 PM

I've double checked the dizzy shaft and there's definitely not grooves. According to the Haynes manual it needs to be bonded, which is what we did when it was last serviced. I'm just a bit concerned as to which position it needs to be in and if this will make a difference or the ignition corrects the timing itself.

**Crasher** · 02-02-2015,12:49 PM

If there is no alignment groove then you are really going to struggle to align it, to far one way or another and you could experience a spark going to the wrong cylinder under certain ignition advance points. I have never seen one without an alignment groove and if there isn't one, I don't know of a rotor that will fit unless you drill out the key. I would like to see a picture of that dizzy shaft if you get chance.

**bungle74** · 02-02-2015,01:51 PM

Sorry, the photos are a bit cr@p. There is a definite change in the metal which is where I tried to align the metal in the rotor arm to last time, must admit the shaft looks a bit scabby. not sure how to clean it up without damaging it.