Loss of gears (1st and 2nd) - TDI 150

[waaarp]

I went to leave the gym last night, went to put the car in reverse and it wouldn't go in. Ended up having to get a push backwards, forward gears worked.

Arrived at a mates house, we noticed the mechanism on top of the gearbox was loose, tightened and reverse worked but I can no longer get 1st or 2nd gears. The gearstick goes into position but gears are not engaging. 3rd - 6th gears work.

I'll go do a search now, fingers crossed this isn't expensive, which means it probably will be.

[tornadored7]

1) Hopefully, this may just be a simple case of adjusting the gear selector cable mechanism. In the first instance try the procedure here ;

Volkswagen Group: Shift Linkage Adjustment for year models 2000-2010


2) Failing the above, I'm afraid this suggests that the 1/2 gear selector fork engager has seperated from the selector fork, inside the gearbox.
The steel selector fork engager is attached to the brass selector fork by a single rivet (see: Figure 2 below)

Over a period of time (perhaps due to too many stiff 1st gear changes ?), this rivet shears.
Upon rivet failure/shearing, the selector fork engager will no longer connect to the shift rod (the part of the gearbox responsible for changing gears), resulting in lack of 1st or 2nd gear engagement (as described).


Unfortunately this is a fairly common problem on the 6 speed (02M) gearbox, such as that used on the PD TDI 130/150 engines (ERF/FMH).
VW seem to have a serious quality issue with some of their gearbox rivets, or as Homer Simpson might put it DUU * !

[*DUU gearbox used with 1.4/1.6 engines]


Figure 1: Selector Fork with no rivet damage





Figure 2: Selector Fork suffering a sheared rivet





Figure 3: New and damaged selector forks side by side

[waaarp]

Thank you for the detailed response, I had searched and found many people reporting the same problem but there was almost no detailed information on the fix, pictures are very useful.

I've ruled out the shift linkage, manually pushing the gears in using the mechanism on top of the gearbox is not possible for 1st and 2nd gears, they do not engage.

I'll be pulling out the gearbox next week (when back from holiday).

My options as I see them.

1) Replace gearbox, obtain from breakers or recon
2) Strip down gearbox and see if I can fix/replace the broken fork engager
3) Take gearbox to specialist to be fixed

I'm going to try option 2 first, are the parts readily available from VW?

[tornadored7]

I'd strongly advise against sourcing a gearbox from a breakers. A reconditioned gearbox from a reputable source, with a long warranty is much preferred, but comes at a price.

The real challenge when sourcing a replacement gearbox is determining the true condition of the gearbox, without being able to road test the box.

Although some immediate tests could be performed such as;

• Checking the condition of the input shaft and all seals
• Checking for leaking oil or case damage
• Iterating over all possible gears, while rotating the input shaft to ensure that the diff flanges rotate at correct angular velocities

Nevertheless, you really don't want to have to road test the box post installation only to be greeted by the grating of worn syncromesh gears .
Additionally, a replacement gearbox may eventually be inflicted with the same Selector fork issue.

Personally, I'd prefer to rework a current gearbox, "Better the devil you know ...", providing you don't have any existing issues with the gearbox (i.e. diff bearings, syncro. gears, worn input shaft, cracked case, &c),

While you may not need a car lift (this is quite viable using only axle stands ), clearly a reasonable amount of experience and competence is required, and a helper ... is useful on occasion .

Some recommended tools;

• Engine support (also useful for timing belt replacements)
• Transmission jack (floor variants are available)
• Shackles and chains (rated to at least 0.5 Ton)
• Clutch alignment tool

Generally most parts are available from VW, but to further advise, please could you reply with your gearbox code ?

This is a three letter code, stamped on a flat layer at the top of the gearbox.
Expect this to be covered in dirt/grease and to be illegible. Use WD40, a wire brush and a little elbow grease to reveal the gearbox code !


Illustrated below is a FMH gearbox.

[waaarp]

UPDATE

I have the box out of the car, took most of Sunday afternoon.

I'll be splitting the box tonight, have a look inside to gauge whether I want to attempt the fix or send to a specialist.

Whilst I'm at it, dare I disturb the clutch and flywheel? I've not had any issues with the clutch yet, sods law says it'll slip as soon as I've got the gearbox fixed.

What checks can I make on the DMF, is this replaced when doing the clutch regardless?

[Crasher]

Personally I would just replace it.

[waaarp]

Thanks, I don't mind replacing it if it needs doing.

Do they lose their flatness, wear marks?

I'm debating trading this shed in once the gearbox is fixed, great car to drive but totally unreliable.

[waaarp]

Well, it took nearly six hours to get the gearbox out on Sunday. Lots of head scratching until I dropped the sub frame.

Gearbox casing opened up, immediately spotted the broken rivet to selector fork issue.

The gears and bearings looked in good shape, the fork was removed, rivet has been drilled and pressed out, replaced with a high tensile bolt.

Gearbox back on car, need to finish off putting everything back together tonight.

Not that difficult a job, just lots of man hours!

Taken a load of pictures, will post once I've found somewhere to host them.

Need to find the correct gearbox oil today.

[waaarp]

Picked up the gearbox oil from VW, £48 for 3 litres, ouch!

Gearbox back in place, car bolted back together.

I didn't have a pressure bleeder for the clutch, need to borrow one from a mate. Clutch slips a bit under full load.

Drove it into work today, all gears now working.

[kite]

good result..