B5 A4 Central Locking FAQ

[ini]

For everyone with a B5 A4 (also applies to A3 & A6) there are two main variants of the central locking pump.

The older single vacuum/pressure outlet 4AO pumps, and the later twin outlet 8LO pumps.

The suffix letter on the end of the part number indicates pump revision and car model.

Most 8LO pumps are interchangeable.

On 8LO pumps, all suffixes above 'A' have Radio Frequency 'remote central locking' incorporated (Late 97+).

If you change to a pump with a different suffix (8LO862257'A' to 8LO862257'E' etc), or from a non-RF pump to an RF pump, you will generally have to use VAG-COM to recode the number in module 35 'central locking' (46 central convenience for later cars) to enable the central locking/alarm to function correctly. The correct code to enter depends on your car model, radio, and desired locking features.

Chose the basecode that describes your car, then add or subract the numbers for the 'Optional locking features' that you require, then enter the final number into your central locking module with VAG-COM.

A4 B5 Central locking Codes can be found on the Rosstech website (scroll down to Module 35)
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/audiB5.html#35

A4 B6
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/audiB6.html#46

A3 pre-97
http://www.robvanguard.co.uk/a3/CODING97.pdf

A3 1998-2000
http://www.robvanguard.co.uk/a3/CODING98.pdf

A3 2000+
http://www.robvanguard.co.uk/a3/CODING00.pdf

Pre 97 A4's normally have a separate 'central locking' control unit under the rear seat bench, compatible with the earlier type IR remote locking fob's (will have small domed IR pickups on the 'B' column's).

If your pump is running for longer than 6 seconds, you have a vacuum/pressure leak in one of the tubes or tube junctions, normally the front doors, fuel flap or junctions behind the front seats. You can sometimes locate the leak by listening for a hissing noise inside the car.

If a leak is not fixed promptly, and the pump continues to work overtime, the graphite impeller will eventually shatter and a replacement pump will be required.

Another common problem with the pump is its location. The pump and its foam protective cover tend to become waterlogged after heavy rain, which can cause unexpected problems like windows opening or closing for no reason, and boot or doors not working with the remote.

All Audi A4's from late 97 onward were factory fitted for 'Remote Central Locking'. If 'remote central locking' was an optional extra and was not purchased with the car, Audi simply gave people non-remote keys.

A4's from 97 to early 98 generally require a two button flip key, as boot locking is pneumatically controled, and unlocks with the rest of the car doors.

Later A4's had a three button flip key, with an electronically controled boot lock.

If you intend to buy a flip key on ebay for your B5 A4, generally stick to the 2 or 3 button '4DO837231' part number keys that will be compatable with your car.(A3 keys are 8LO, 8PO etc)

Some 3 button remotes will work on various different models, but there is no definitive list.

The remotes contain two separate components:

1. The 'Remote Central Locking' part, which has to be sync'ed to the car to enable the RF remote locking. You can sync the remote either using the two key method, which differs for pre and post 97 cars, or use VAG-COM to enter the key manually.

2. The 'Immobiliser' part, which takes the form of a small glass capsule containing a 'micro-circuit', which is present in all of the car keys, even the tiny plastic emergency type key.

The earlier immobiliser type had a 'static code' and the later type had a 'rolling code'.

If you do not have a remote key, and your B5 A4 is late 97 onwards, you can purchase the correct 2 or 3 button flip key (ebay etc) and swap the transponder capsule from one of your old type 'main' keys. This will allow the immobiliser to be disabled when you start the car. If you do not have a spare immobiliser capsule to transfer, you will have to take your keys to Audi for a transponder swap/recode.

This is all information that i found usefull when i retrofitted original 'Keyless Entry' to my 97 A4 TDI SE, and is probably oversimplified in parts.

[quattronut]

I have seen a few of these C/L pumps with the graphite impeller broken. Any one know if repair kits are available?
Most pumps I have seen have been made by VDO.

If some enterprising person has the know-how to mass produce these impellers and blades they could make a fortune.

New pumps retail for the best part of £300.

Just changing the impeller is a very straight forward job and would save having the added hassle of recoding unit to your set of options and teaching it your remote keys.

My car a Dec 96 1.8 T Avant has a C/L unit part no. 8L0862257G. This came without a remote key and there is not an IR receiver in either B post.

Looking at the C/L unit coding with Vag Com I found the code 13130, which according to an Audi w/s manual is the coding for a c/l unit fitted after 1998 with central locking, anti-theft alarm system and radio remote control.

I also checked a factory wiring diagram that suggested that plug A pins 7 and 1on the C/L unit are connected to the remote locking aerial which I think is part of the loom. This is fed by a shielded (co-axial) cable, the shield is connected to pin A7 with the aerial feed on pin A1.

I have looked at my C/L unit and sure enough I have a shielded cable connected as described that disappears into the loom.
As I am not the first owner I do not know if my pump has been changed in the past.

I am glad I have read INI'S post as it confirms what I had guessed that most Audi C/L pumps had remote locking available after a certain date.

I will now source a replacement pump (or repair kit if one is available) and a two button remote.

If I get it all working I' ll post a more detailed write up, including what kit you need to code your own keys. :biglaugh:

[nstark15]

Hi,

Been looking at the wiring diagram for my A4 via haynes and it suggest that the RF reivers are on the B pillars with the sensors, they are named LH Receiver and RH receiver, is mine going to be the same, as if the range is not very good i am wondering were to point the key when re programming, if it needs to be near the loom or near B pillars.


Thanks

[ini]

The only sensors on the 'B' pillars are the ultrasonic's for the alarm, and sometimes IR pickups for the very early type remote system.

The RF receiver on 97on cars is inside the vacuum pump.

The ariel on the early RF type loom did not have very good reception, so Audi released a bulletin on how to increase the RF range. Basically you exactly doubled the ariel length if i remember correctly.

To sync a new Flip key to the car you need 2 keys, and it is a good idea to roll down the drivers window. (lifted from AudiWorld)

1.Take the key you DO NOT want to program and put it in the ignition. Turn it one click forward.

2. Close and lock the drivers door with the second key.

3. On the second key (the one in the drivers door) press the 'UNLOCK' button ONCE only. The lights will flash on the car, but the doors will remain locked

4. With the second key still in the drivers door, unlock then lock the door again.

5. Pull the key from the slot and test remote functions.

6. Open drivers door, remove key from ignition.

If you want to program a second key, do the above for the first key, but on step #3, press the 'UNLOCK' button twice. The lights will flash twice, then continue on with step #4.


(The earlier type non flip key remotes have a slightly different programming method, in which you hold down both buttons on the remote for 5 seconds.)

[RickT]

Thread made sticky due to the great info.

Rick

[carlosb_a4]

can some one help, i have an audi a4 1.9tdi. it does not ahve remote central locking. i purchased a remote central locking kit from ebay (non Audi) i am trying to find the positive switch wire. for the locking system. anyone know the colour? cheers carl

[rchiileea]

So let me get this right, if my code (only have service key and a crushed original) is 4D0 010 023 138 E (guessing middle part only 100% sure on 4D0 010 and the 138 E part) any 4D0 fob will work ?

[aj9107]

dont bother wasting your money on changing the whole unit, get down the scappy find a similar car as long as it has the same outlets and there is no sign of carbon dust inside unsolder the power cables from the motor and the wires going to the pcb swap bored on the new one (remembering where they go) do the same on the broken one solder the old bored to the new pump put it back together using the base plate from you over car(keep part numbers) refit it and away you go. no need to recode keys

cost me £20 and the petrol to the scrappy to sort mine out:biglaugh:

[rob1ian]

Hi, the well where the pump lives in my car is waterlogged, so I guess this might be causing me problems with the remote/central locking not working. Do you know where the water gets in? Could there be a blocked drain hole?

I don't have a sunroof so that eliminates one possible area!

[trickyt4]

Hi i have a '99 a4 2.5 tdi with normal non remote blade keys, the pump has an 'H' suffix with twin outlets.

I have bought a 4DO fob and tried to program it to the car using the key in ignition/door method and it isn't working.

How can i be sure that the pump has a radio receiver as previously mentioned?

This is a very highly spec'd car and i can't believe it hasn't got remote central locking!!!

Help, please:(:confused:

[olds_kool]

8L0862257A and 8L0862257H are non remote pumps all other suffix found on uk spec cars are remote compatable
i think remote c/l was an option on A4's untill facelift model, they have 8d0862257'e' p/n

you can use a 'G' to replace a 'H' but remote range is poor

[trickyt4]

Thanks for that.

Maybe this post should be revised so as not to give the wrong information to people who might go out and spend 50 odd quid on a remote fob only o find out that they need a new pump!!!!!

[ini]

Apologies, there is a lot of pertinent info missing, 4A0 & 8D0 pumps, compatible car-pump-remotes etc.

On a B5 chassis car, you may be more satisfied with an aftermarket flip-key kit, as the OEM remote only has a range of a few metres (for security reasons).

[johnwintle]

Tried to add a new remote today using the info above but no sucess. The hazard lights flashed at the appropriate times, and the new remote did unlock the car when it was still in the door lock, but on removal it would not unlock/lock the car/boot at all.

Can anyone help me out with this.

Thanks in advance,

John.
1999 A4 B5.5 Saloon

[ini]

From your description it appears that the car did recognise and synch the remote.

The most likely explanation is either a weak battery in the remote (try operating it inside the car, or with the remote touching the bodywork)

Or the remote sync proceedure was not completed successfully.

[johnwintle]

Well in the end I did get this remote to work ok with the car, but now the original one diesn't, so it looks like I didn't wait the required length of time between pressing the unlock the reqd number of times for the remote, and then the single unlock. Audi service manuals indicate a wait of 5 secs after the initial number of presses of the UNLOCK, before the single UNLOCK. It then says to switch off the ignition and remove the ignition key, then check the new transmitter for function.

Guess I was just a bit too quick off the mark!
Thanks for your reply, I will try it again later on.

John

[john_richter]

Dear reading experts,

My 1995 Audi A4 has central door locking with remote button thing. (Apologies for bad english, english is not my first language)

The central door locking works quick and smooth with the keys.
However, three days ago my car battery died. Nothing electric worked, is was that empty. Merely the LED of the alarm on the dashboard functioned if I press the button.

The dealer gave me a new battery. Now everything works fine again.
Apart from the button that does the central door locks.

It still works with keys. The LED also responds when I press the button.
Just no flashing indicator lights and door-unlocking.

What can this be?

Any help would be greatly apprecieated.

[RS4 Dreamer]

Hi,
I have just had the pleasure of discovering the graphite impeller has shattered in my central locking pump. I can only find a part number of 8LO 862 257. Can someone tell me where I find the letter to finish the part number from? Also does anyone know where I can buy a new graphite impeller from? I don't see the point in replacing the whole pump when it is just the impeller that's broke.
Thanks

[rob1ian]

Hi, I have seen the impellers sold as kits on ebay. Not sure if you can get a similar type of pump and take the bits from it, but maybe somone else will answer that.....

[olds_kool]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/audi-a4-a3-central-locking-pump-repair-graphite-parts_W0QQitemZ250403061942QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_C arsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item25040306194 2&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A4%7C65%3A1%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

some pumps part numbers dont end in a letter, but one ending in a 'G' will be the same if you want to replace pump

[dan2802]

Hi,
I have just had the pleasure of discovering the graphite impeller has shattered in my central locking pump. I can only find a part number of 8LO 862 257. Can someone tell me where I find the letter to finish the part number from? Also does anyone know where I can buy a new graphite impeller from? I don't see the point in replacing the whole pump when it is just the impeller that's broke.
Thanks
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=140312292082

[26matt]

Audi say that if the pump keeps running for more than 6 secs then there is a leak on the system. If there is a fairly serious leak then yes this is true but there are other causes. With both pipes off the pump, it is easy to put your fingers over the outlets so the pump should run only very briefly as the pressure or vacuum will build very quickly. If the pump keeps running even once you have blocked the outlets then it is a faulty unit but all is not lost. The pump stops running when the pressure/vacuum switch (built into the pipe outlet bit) activates. This is simply a little diaphragm unit (white plastic on my one) that makes a contact in either direction - lock or unlock. The pump "blows" for lock and "sucks" for unlock and I had the undocumented puzzle that it was fine on lock but ran for 30secs on unlock. Having pulled it all apart I then noticed a little (20mm by 10mm approx) access panel (DOH!) in the unit under the part number sticker next to the pipe outlets that can be removed without dismantling the unit. Carefully prizing this out with a little screwdriver on the tabs I found that the diaphragm switch contacts are then visible without any dismantling at all. To test: With the pipes on, open and lock the central locking and see if the contacts are made in both directions. If the contacts move far enough both ways then your pressures are OK ie no leaks and your pump is working. If they don’t move enough then either you have poor pressure (leak or failed pump- the actual pump is very easy to change if you can get one from the scrappers) or the diaphragm switch is faulty. In my case there was plenty of movement and the contacts were closing but the contacts for “open” ie under vacuum were actually a bit tarnished and hence not conducting (too many years in a damp boot well? Now dry as carefully siliconed the rear lamps!). A quick kiss with a little file and bingo, 3 sec pump run time. Incidentally, these contacts are what govern the pump run time. If you remove the little access panel as described above you will see that the contacts have little tags to get pliers or a screwdriver on. This allows you to bend the static contacts closer (quicker shut off) or further (longer run time) apart from the moving contact. Be careful with this though as even a small tweak of the contact has a big effect!

[pelerin]

Fixed my '97 A4 by reading this thread and following this tech article (from a previous post in this thread) http://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec149.shtml

I used the pump from an Audi 80 central locking unit, which cost me £15.

Removing the pump I had to swap the rubber mounting nipples onto the new pump. I also had to cut the vacuum pipe and insert a piece of vacuum pipe using the nozzle section from the original pump.

No worries abour recoding keys etc. All in all a fairly straightforward job that I wouldn't have had a clue how to do without this forum, nice one, cheers

[hoax]

hi all
:1zhelp:
I have a problem with my central locking, When i try to unlock my 2001 s4 avant 2.7 twin turbo using the remote buttons nothing happens, if i use the key in the door, driver door opens and other doors unlock when the keys are put in the ignition, as per normal procedure.

Have checked the CL pump in the boot, seems to be working ok.

Any ideas and solutions would be most apreciated:confused:

many thanks

Martyn

[powellste]

My central locking pump has the following code on it: 4AO 862 257 J

Does this pump have remote central locking? I've looked on a few sites and a cant find out for definate if it is or not.
Ta

[ini]

I think the '4AO862257J' pump works with the older IR type central locking system.

You will have the little bubbles on your 'B' pillars if it is fitted.

If not, an aftermarket kit is your best option.

[portmanteau]

I'm still not clear whether 8L0 862 257 E (originally from a Japanese market car) is codeable for remote lock, even though it definitely did not leave the factory with that option?

One or two of the post above were a bit ambiguous.

Could somebody clarify please?

[olds_kool]

8L0 or 8D0 'E' ?

[portmanteau]

It's an 8L0

The post that is confusing me is:


8L0862257A and 8L0862257H are non remote pumps all other suffix found on uk spec cars are remote compatable
i think remote c/l was an option on A4's untill facelift model, they have 8d0862257'e' p/n

[olds_kool]

you have a non uk spec car with a non uk fitted pump
heres the list for the uk

8L0 862 257 early model remote c/l pump, has limited functions e.g wont operate door pin led's or flash indicators on unlock
8L0 862 257 'A' early model non remote
8L0 862 257 'H' 98-99 non remote pump
8L0 862 257 'G' 98-99 remote c/l pump uses 2 button remote fob
8L0 862 257 'P' 99+ facelift model pump, all facelift have remote c/l and so behaves oddly if you use the key to open door (drivers door only will unlock untill you turn ign. on) they also use a different siren (batt back up type) so arent compatable with earlier cars
8D0 862 257 'E' as above

do you have access to vagcom? if so try altering softcode to accept remote c/l coding if it accepts it your remote capable

some also show 'mit funk' (with radio) in the description

[portmanteau]

Thanks for that help. I have actually begun to scrap this '97 ex-Japan car now, and was thinking of seeing if I could transfer the relevant looms and wireless-capable locking into my daily driver A4 quattro (1996 M.Y. - UK Spec), which does not have wireless either, and only has the older 2-plug locking module.

Unfortunately the donor car (being scrapped) reached my hands with no keys apart from the valet, but a vin search tells me that it left the factory without the wireless option (which might have just meant no remote keys and no coding)

Before I waste time trying to use this module to update my '96 then I guess I best plug it back in and see if I can get vagcom to talk to it, even though the engine and engine loom has been removed already. Fingers crossed!

If it accepts the coding, then it's worth pursuing the exercise. Failing that, I will just fit an aftermarket wireless c/l module and interface it with the factory locking, the same as I had to do years ago when I had an ur-S6 with the hopeless infrared system

Thanks again

[ini]

As the pump is not for Eurpean/UK use, it would work on 315MHz.

The Japanese 'keyless entry' systems modulation works on 'frequency-shift keying', unlike the 'amplitude-shift keying' that we use.

[portmanteau]

uh oh!

I had already sussed out the frequency for Japan being the same as USA and other markets, but I always wondered why the japanese remotes had their own part numbers.

Can I take it, then, that a USA 315mhz fob is not going to talk to a Japanese locking module? That's going to upset my project :'(

[portmanteau]

unless......... will country coding change the locking module to the wireless mode that I would need?

(It's easy and cheap enough to find fobs from the USA, but not from Japan)

[ini]

The modulation is hardware, only the Japanese market remote will work with the pump (if it is RF enabled).

[portmanteau]

Well, that puts an end to that project - on to plan B:

When I added an aftermarket c/l remote to my ur-S6 to replace the infrared there were a few diagrams floating around online that showed the necessary connections to the alarm module (which also required a couple of relays to be added)

Has anybody prepared a similar schematic or how-to to help with doing this on the A4?

All these replies are much appreciated, btw :)

[verderad]

Hi, I have a 51 plate A4 2.0 SE Saloon. It went in for a service and on return the boot can only be opened using the middle button on the key fob. before its service the boot could be manually opened if the doors of the car had been unlocked from the remote fob.
This has not been a problem until my wife locked the keys in the boot!!
The doors of the car were open but pushing the unlock button on teh door did not unlock the boot. Any ideas? Can the set up of CL be chaned so that the boot is unlocke when the doors are open?

[johnwintle]

Check that the position of the opening on the lock in the boot hasn't been changed as I believe the you can disconnect the boot from the central locking by turning the lock cylinder one way or the other with the key. It should be in the owners manual if this is the case. Switching the lock back the other way with the key may well restore this function to be with the central locking. (check the owners book though).

[xioheh]

Hi all, I wonder if I could get your input on a problem I have with my central locking please?

A short while ago my central locking stopped working. So I bought a new pump from ebay. Exactly the same as my existing one, 4A0 862 257 J, single outlet none-remote. I plugged it in, exactly the same problem: I could lock both front doors manually which in turn switched off the internal lights, but it will not lock all doors or pip the horn etc. all I get is a small clicking sound from the pump.

I stripped the pump down and checked the blades, fine, and also on my first one...fine inside.

I've since managed to get my hands on a third one that I know works fine. Exactly the same....key will only lock the door it's in. The lights go out, and a small click from the pump.

I've stripped all the door cards off and the back seat and looked for a leak/break in the pipes, nothing obvious. I've blown down the pipe connector that connects to the pump and watched the fuel lock rod move up and down. I've checked the fuse and even replaced the working one.

I've just ordered a vagcom cable to see if the computer will tell me anything, but is there anything obvious you can see that I cannot?

Thanks.

[olds_kool]

if the pump isnt pumping and known to be good then it must be electrical/wiring problem

[guarandeed]

Hello everybody,
after a heavy rain, I noticed that the floor was wet. I immediately dried the floor but after a while I also noticed that the overhead light does not light up when I open any of the doors.
Then I also noticed that if I unlock the car and open any of the three doors except the driver's one, the central locking system locks the car again. Does anybody know what might be the problem? Is there a diagram that I can refer to?
Thanks a lot,
Andreas

[26matt]

Hi Xioheh.

Unlikely to be a problem with the unit as all 3 have behaved the same. Did the door actuators operate when you blew on the air pipe or just the fuel flap? Do I understand you correctly that the air pump only runs briefly? If so, sounds to me like you may have a kinked/ blocked air pipe somewhere between the fuel flap actuactor and the doors. This would also account for the very short pump run time as the pressures would build up very quickly.

Cheers,

Matt

[kenshin]

Hi everyone,
I am a Newbie here, just bought my 1996 Audi A4 1.9TDi with central locking. I am thinking about upgrading it to remote central locking. Has anyone done this before. Please give me a step by step instruction, how easy? how difficult this job is? I have to say I am a newbie so please forgive me for being ignorant. Many thanks in advance.

[diesel-a4]

i have a feeling mine is water logged. It used to work but hasn't working on ages. Need to get the Part#s from it and report back:)

It was very slow at locking and even sometimes lock herself. Front drivers window would go down on its own to sometimes :aargh4::aargh4:

[cusford]

hey, i have a 1996 a4 1.9 tdi and it has the ir receivers on the b pillars.
i have two keys, one that has been cut for the car, but wont let the car start due to the immobiliser. and the other one with the ir function that will allow the car to start.

the ir function doesn 't work though, and wondering if there is another way of programming it without having to use both keys, because it wont work.


thanks

[ini]

The external 'IR' bubbles on the 'B' pillars are receivers for the central locking system.

It may be simpler and more economical to abandon the original IR system and fit a modern radio frequency flip key kit, which are readily available on ebay for around £30.

Your keys have 'static' type transponder capsules in them, so you can take your working key to an autolocksmith and simply have the transponder capsule copied/cloned and fitted to as many new keys as you want. The car will then see all keys as the same key.

[cusford]

The external 'IR' bubbles on the 'B' pillars are receivers for the central locking system.

It may be simpler and more economical to abandon the original IR system and fit a modern radio frequency flip key kit, which are readilly available on ebay for around £30.

Your keys have 'static' type transponder capsules in them, so you can take your working key to an autolocksmith and simply have the transponder capsule copied/cloned and fitted to as many new keys as you want. The car will then see all keys as the same key.

a flip key kit?? any links to more information on change it from the IR system to a radio frequency would be great. or a link to this 'kit' would be great!

thanks

[mentalmackay]

Hi all!!!

has anybody ever had this problem;

upon opening the car the central locking pump is audible and all doors unlock, but aprox 5-10sces later (or after closing door) the pump is heard working again??? nothing locks or unlocks??

not sure if this is a sign of the pump giving up or not... but makes me wonder:confused:

[dan2802]

Hi all!!!

has anybody ever had this problem;

upon opening the car the central locking pump is audible and all doors unlock, but aprox 5-10sces later (or after closing door) the pump is heard working again??? nothing locks or unlocks??

not sure if this is a sign of the pump giving up or not... but makes me wonder:confused:
Sounds like the pump impellor may be knackered. New kits can be bought on ebay and do work ( i did mine).
here is the link to the kit I bought.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AUDI-A3-A4-central-locking-pump-replacement_W0QQitemZ140399527550QQihZ004QQcategor yZ10372QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[olds_kool]

if its locking and unlocking ok then theres nothing wrong with impeller plus his car is a 95 so they wont fit his pump

does it continue pumping after locking or completly stop then start for no reason?

[mentalmackay]

yeah it stops after it has unlocked everything, then just makes a noise again for no apparant reason after the 5/10secs or whne a door is closed???

doesnt happen when locking though...

stillworks fine so im just not sure....

not too fussed as it still works okay, just wonder if this is a sign that its about to go POP!!! :biglaugh:

[STEVE LING]

you have a non uk spec car with a non uk fitted pump
heres the list for the uk

8L0 862 257 early model remote c/l pump, has limited functions e.g wont operate door pin led's or flash indicators on unlock
8L0 862 257 'A' early model non remote
8L0 862 257 'H' 98-99 non remote pump
8L0 862 257 'G' 98-99 remote c/l pump uses 2 button remote fob
8L0 862 257 'P' 99+ facelift model pump, all facelift have remote c/l and so behaves oddly if you use the key to open door (drivers door only will unlock untill you turn ign. on) they also use a different siren (batt back up type) so arent compatable with earlier cars
8D0 862 257 'E' as above

do you have access to vagcom? if so try altering softcode to accept remote c/l coding if it accepts it your remote capable

some also show 'mit funk' (with radio) in the description

Hi there i have this model(8L0 862 257 'P' 99+ facelift model pump,) .unfortunately i have purchased another pump that has the letter "G" after the numbers .can i have this reprogammed to use in mycar .everything works except that it wont turn off once started and the battery is running flat all the time ?


thanks for any help im at the end of my tether trying to fix this problem :banghead::banghead:

[olds_kool]

not sure what you mean by 'wont turn off once started'
what was up with old pump?

your keys can be coded to the pump to operate remote c/l. siren will no longer operate though

instructions (if you have two keys) are located in this thread somewhere

[STEVE LING]

not sure what you mean by 'wont turn off once started'
what was up with old pump?

your keys can be coded to the pump to operate remote c/l. siren will no longer operate though

instructions (if you have two keys) are located in this thread somewhere

the engine starts but then will not turn off via the key when this pump is fitted to the car?
the old pumps circuit board is not working right .the pump works on another unit etc

[STEVE LING]

Also if i remove the luggage compartment /central locking fuse this then turns the engine off?
the alarm ciren continually sound on this car so i have had to remove the ciren .is there any way of removing the alarm so it
will stop draining the battery and is the reason its doing this the central locking pump ? where is the alarm unit in the car ?i have found the ecu for the alarm but even when this is removed the ciren continues to go off :-(
this is a nightmare

[STEVE LING]

bump up ? any one got any ideas please .i put aNOTHER PUMP WITH A "P" AND ITS DOING THE SAME BLOOODY THING :zx11:

OOPS SORRY CAPS LOCK SLIPPED ON

[buster]

Hi Peeps

My nephew's A4 1.9TDi saloon (52 plate) has a problem with central locking.

The boot lid does not unlock when the car is unlocked. If he stands there and holds the middle button (with the pic of the boot on it) for a second or so, then it unlocks. But it used to unlock with the rest of the doors.

Any ideas?

Richard

[slimer]

Hi gentlemen, I'm having a little trouble with central locking and couldn't find any posts with someone experiencing exactly the same eccentricities.

I have a 1996 A4 1.8 petrol, the very basic model with no central locking button inside the car.

When I open the car with the key, only the door/boot I'm opening unlocks. No noise off the motor or anything... But! When I push the locking pin down on the passengers door everything locks.

The motor then continues to sound for about 5 seconds.

Any help or opinions would be greatly appreciated

EDIT: I just had a look at the motor to see if anything was loose or if there was air escaping anywhere. There are four things plugged into the motor, 2 electrical plugs, 1 thick clear (I assume) air intake hose, and 1 thin red hose. As well as this, there is a thin green hose going back there not plugged in to anything that is blowing out air when the motor is working. It's not long enough to reach the motor and has a clip at the end begging to be plugged in somewhere..

[karl-quattro]

Hi,
i recently bought a new grafite impellor and blades on ebay uk for 30-40 quid,
30 min fix and works perfect for several months now....

[RoXXoR]

hi i have a 1996 a4 2.6 v6 recently the central locking stopped working on the key i dont have a remote for it only a key and only 1 key i was able a while ago to get it to work by locking all doors and boot making sure the boot lock was in vertical position then opening the passenger door with the key running to the drivers door opening that with the key and then putting the fob immobiliser key into the slot and then would hear a noise and all doors and boot would unlock.
but when i do this now i hear the noise and then hear it again and it opens them but then wont work with the key to lock them if i turn the key in the drivers door to lock them it only locks the drivers door and no noise from the cl pump if i then unlock the drivers door i hear the pump make the noise so it seems to be working in some manner just doesnt seem to be fully functional.
i have looked at it and cant see anything that stands out to say its broken.
i can get a replacement pump but just wanted some advice before i pay out for a pump.
p.s. anyone know where i may be able to get hold of a remote central locking 3 button remote i think they are then i can get it re programmed or do the trick by getting a spare key or 2 with transponders? thx

[abimogen]

Thanks for this. I just checked mine and found it to be running for 15seconds!! It was a split pipe where it comes out of the compressor. 10 mins to fix and a fortune saved. It now runs for 3 seconds!

[luigi171]

I had a busted pump, turned out to be my impeller. Drive to scrappy, buy old pump (£35) remove impeller, and fit impeller in my pump :D happy days.

I did in the process acquire a spare impeller for a single outlet pump (ripped it off an burnt out a4 from my dads work) Anyone needs it for a repair give us a shout.

Luigi

[The Fixer]

The ariel on the early RF type loom did not have very good reception, so Audi released a bulletin on how to increase the RF range. Basically you exactly doubled the ariel length if i remember correctly.
Hi first post i have all topics. How do i double the ariel length on my 1996 A4 B5 Avant.

Thanks Jamie

[mixmaster_mike]

I have a '98 B5 Avant with CL pump number 8L0 862 257 H. It has an Audi Logic 500 alarm fitted unlocking all doors from single button remote.

After damaging my original tailgate I acquired a facelift tailgate with Solenoid Actuated opening. This fits great but can anyone help with getting the release mechanism to work with my CL system?

Thanks.

[alka-seltzer]

Great thread, but I need to add something else!

The c/l works perfectly on my 2001 Avant, however the pump groans when it runs, and has done since I've owned it.

It always works and only runs for about 3 seconds, just this groaning noise - sounds like my nephew when his mum asks him to do something!

Any ideas or help greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Nick

[red_mamba]

Hi!

Any one has wiring diagrams for A4 central locking?
I need to find a signal wire that indicates when the car is locked/unlocked or a signal wire that signals to blink the lights.

Thanks,
David

[RoXXoR]

hi im having a problem with the pump again i cant reset it locking all doors and boot making sure the boot lock was in vertical position then opening the passenger door with the key running to the drivers door opening that with the key and then putting the fob immobiliser key into the slot and then would hear a noise and all doors and boot would unlock. and the pump is clicking/ticking any ideas

[wid77]

Audi say that if the pump keeps running for more than 6 secs then there is a leak on the system. If there is a fairly serious leak then yes this is true but there are other causes. With both pipes off the pump, it is easy to put your fingers over the outlets so the pump should run only very briefly as the pressure or vacuum will build very quickly. If the pump keeps running even once you have blocked the outlets then it is a faulty unit but all is not lost. The pump stops running when the pressure/vacuum switch (built into the pipe outlet bit) activates. This is simply a little diaphragm unit (white plastic on my one) that makes a contact in either direction - lock or unlock. The pump "blows" for lock and "sucks" for unlock and I had the undocumented puzzle that it was fine on lock but ran for 30secs on unlock. Having pulled it all apart I then noticed a little (20mm by 10mm approx) access panel (DOH!) in the unit under the part number sticker next to the pipe outlets that can be removed without dismantling the unit. Carefully prizing this out with a little screwdriver on the tabs I found that the diaphragm switch contacts are then visible without any dismantling at all. To test: With the pipes on, open and lock the central locking and see if the contacts are made in both directions. If the contacts move far enough both ways then your pressures are OK ie no leaks and your pump is working. If they don’t move enough then either you have poor pressure (leak or failed pump- the actual pump is very easy to change if you can get one from the scrappers) or the diaphragm switch is faulty. In my case there was plenty of movement and the contacts were closing but the contacts for “open” ie under vacuum were actually a bit tarnished and hence not conducting (too many years in a damp boot well? Now dry as carefully siliconed the rear lamps!). A quick kiss with a little file and bingo, 3 sec pump run time. Incidentally, these contacts are what govern the pump run time. If you remove the little access panel as described above you will see that the contacts have little tags to get pliers or a screwdriver on. This allows you to bend the static contacts closer (quicker shut off) or further (longer run time) apart from the moving contact. Be careful with this though as even a small tweak of the contact has a big effect!

Just wanted to say a big thank you as I had the exact same problems as you experienced with approx 15 secs of pump running time when unlocking. I checked for leaks and there was nothing obvious. I have now cleaned and adjusted the contacts to give 3 secs for opening and closing and all is working fine. Cheers.

[Gerpic]

does any other ebay unlock tool work on unblock?
how is this one?
Bypass Audi immobilizer unlock tool (http://www.uobd2.com/wholesale/bypass-immo-tool.html)

[jthabiso36]

I have a 96 model B5 A4,it didn't have the original keys.I bought a 97 ignition and remote (with open and close) fighted and programmed key.The car starts with no probs.The car uses a single vacuum central lock pump,but since i got a programmable key,i tried to do adaptation but key wouldn't close and open doors.I bought a twin vacuum central pump and noticed that when i connect all plugs to the pump,all wiring plugs are same except the main pink plug which leaves me with two unwired wires <brown grey and green blue> there is no response from new pump.I took it and sticked the pump into a 97 B5 and programmed the key everything worked but when i put it back in my b5 nothing..my concern is this2 loose wires,how do i get this right.

[stonyfitz]

Can anyone help im looking for audi central locking pump 8D0 862 257 C cant find one anywhere thanks

[stonyfitz]

looking for help finding a cl pump 8D0 862 257 C hope someone can help thanks.

[dzikuss]

Hi there! I have problem with my 8D0 862 257E..I can unlock my car using either with key or aftermarket car alarm remote. (I haven't factory remote keys).until I lock a car..after that I can't unlock anymore..After unlock with key drivers door and turn on ignition, other doors opens..
Can't understand why..coding is set to 00000 so no car alarm, no remote control is activated..

[Stevesa3]

Hi, I've just taken out the central locking pump from my A4 B5 1997. The code on the back just states 8LO 862 57 and doesn't have any letters after even he printed code under just states I008 120997 " " with no letters in the " ". it does have the green radio cert and has been working with remote. Which replacement would best?

I'm not sure if it's the pump that's gone or the actual unit is fried. I've taken the grey cover off and dropped the board down which is covered I black (possibly carbon) and smells at little of electrical burn. When I try to lock and unlock the car I'm only hearing a couple clicks it doesn't sound like the motors running at all. The area that the unit is located is completely dry with no sign of any water marks. The funny thing is I changed the oil breather pipes in the engine bay, closed the bonnet went to lock the car and the central locking stopped working,I thought I nicked a pipe whilst working on the engine but there's nothing in there that'll effect the central locking.

Any advice?

Thanks
Steve

[wid77]

Why don't you buy a pump on eBay and if it doesn't work you can sell it again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[alanmanley]

Hi, I am not sure if I am just being a complete noob here but how do I access WAG-COM to enter the codes for the new key? Central locking works with key in the door but not via RF. Have checked the well for CL pump and no water. Thought as its not a manufacturers key I have its likely the previous owner to my step dad didnt have this step completed?

Sorry if this is a completely retarded question.

[Flacidmonkey]

Does anyone have a copy of
A3 pre-97
404 Not Found (http://www.robvanguard.co.uk/a3/CODING97.pdf)

A3 1998-2000
http://www.robvanguard.co.uk/a3/CODING98.pdf
(http://www.robvanguard.co.uk/a3/CODING98.pdf)
both links are dead