2008 2.0 tdi 170 cranks but won't start

[Kyle_471]

Good morning all,
I bought a 2008 2.0 tdi Pd170 DSG with 112k in January. Since day 1 of owning the car it's had a slight starting issue where it takes a couple of attempts at starting before it catches and starts. Stupidly bought it believing it had been stood a while so the battery needed jumping which worked first time.

Over the last couple of months this has progressed to the point that sometimes when trying to start it's almost like the battery is flat, it turns once and everything on the dash goes blank with no attempt to crank. Battery tested and is working fine. Immediately taking the key out and trying again it usually fired up.

This problem has got worse and worse to the point where it was taking me 4 or 5 attempts to start the car. Until 2 days ago when it just refused to start. Batter out and fully charged still nothing. Cranks well usually but doesn't fire, occasionally I still have the black dash as described above.

Over the last couple of months I've don't the following to try solve the problem.

OBDeleven readout showed crankshaft sensor fault.
This has been replaced.
Cleaned out the egr and intake flap whilst it was off, plenty of carbon in there.

fluids changed, filters changed.

HPFP rebuilt with new seals etc.
Lifter pump under rear seats appears to be working correctly. Turns on with ignition briefly and can prime for 30secs with OBDeleven.

Checked the resistance on all glow plugs which seem fine.

Checked all fuses and relays which all look good. Checked wiring which appears good, nothing looks loose or melted or shorting.

Tried both keys with the same result.

Really scratching my head with this, I've read through the forums and see people have had all sorts of different solutions which I've tried looking at on mine but none seem to work.
Does anyone have any suggestions based on the symptoms I'm having?

It's weird because when the car starts it runs fine and pulls like a train.

Thanks for taking the time to read my post.

[philipharmes]

If the dash is going blank during starting you have an electrical problem.

It sounds like the battery is on the way out or a poor conexion.

Check the battery terminals, make sure they are clean & tight.

Check the earth strap, make sure it is tight, no corossion where it bolts to the chassis & check the copper core hasn't got broken conductors due to fracture at each end.

What is the battery voltage after the car has been sat overnight ?

Does it start ok when the engine is warm ?

[Renars]

How was battery tested ?
First thing should have been new battery in this case.

[Kyle_471]

The dash going black is every now and then, I got the battery tested at a local garage who test it under load etc and confirmed it was good.
I can't remember what the voltage drop was overnight but I'm pretty sure the voltage stays on or around 12.6

The starting problems don't alter with a hot or cold engine

I'll have a look at earth connections tonight but I've already had a good look around before coming onto the forum.

Thanks for the suggestions 👍

[philipharmes]

If you don't find any problem with the conexions check the battery voltage while cranking.

It shouldnt drop below 10v.

Other possibility is a faulty starter motor with some shorted windings.

[Quatrelle]

As philipharmes #2 (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=2) says, make sure the battery posts, especially, are really clean. Years ago a friend's car had the same problem - the starter turned the engine easily, so we wiped the posts till they were shiny, and the car started.

Might work for you.

[Kyle_471]

OK so I got home and checked everything. All connections look good, I had left the battery on charge just incase.
Took it off charge and connected it back up

Tried to start and cranking fine but didn't fire. After a couple of attempts it started however its now idling at 1200 and sounds slight rattly. Even when up to temp the idle didnt change.

[DieselMonster]

It shouldn't idle that high and engine shouldn't rattle either. Is it not throwing any codes up?

[simonson82]

My passat would randomly not start, just keep cranking. I read that if the starter doesnt spin fast enough then the fuel pump doesnt put fuel through to the engine. A replacement fixed the problems.

[DMitch16]

112k is in the range of an original LuK Dual Mass Flywheel failure. Could explain the rattling. As mentioned the starter motor could be a little tired and need cleaning (a lot starter motor problems I've tackled only needed them to be cleaned and regreased). One needed a new solenoid, one had a bad earth and another a loose power feed from the battery. Have had bad relays, over-running / failing to disengage and worn brush packs but apart from these few all the others have been restored to service with a clean. Must have cleaned 30 or so in the last 15 years.

Faulty ignition switches are common on these cars.

[Kyle_471]

Thanks for the replies guys.

I'll whip the starter out and check it over.

I'll be back in a couple of days when I've had chance to do it and let you know 👍

[Kyle_471]

Afternoon guys,
So I pulled the starter and the brushes were knackered. Replaced those for £15 and it's like new 👍

Car cranks beautifully but wouldn't start.

From looking through this forum I saw alot of issues with injector seals so I got new ones for £35 and fit them.

The car now starts but doesn't sound great, still idles at 1200rpm and sounds like it's misfiring.
Did a readout with OBDeleven and injector 2 and 3 has implausible signal. I was so careful with the loom but I know they're really brittle as they're sat in hot oil.
As the loom is the only wiring to the injector I've touched it must be that so I'll have to buy a new one and replace it.

Anyone know how much it will be and Where's bets to buy it?

Cheers

[DMitch16]

Darkside Developments do them £110 + vat + delivery

Genuine VW Injector Wiring Loom for VW 2.0 16v TDI PD Engines - 03G 971 033 L (https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/genuine-vw-injector-wiring-loom-for-vw-2-0-16v-tdi-pd-engines-03g-971-033-l.html)

Some genuine on ebay for less so slightly cheaper if you have a search for the 03G 971 033 L part number.

[Kyle_471]

Darkside Developments do them £110 + vat + delivery

Genuine VW Injector Wiring Loom for VW 2.0 16v TDI PD Engines - 03G 971 033 L (https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/genuine-vw-injector-wiring-loom-for-vw-2-0-16v-tdi-pd-engines-03g-971-033-l.html)

Some genuine on ebay for £114.99 so slightly cheaper.

Ouch. Cheers Mitch I'll have a check over this one see if it's a loose connection and failing that I'll order one. Any special tools required for fitting it through the head?

[DMitch16]

Yep a special 3 pronged socket but a 3 to 4 foot piece of rope or parachute cord can be a good substitute to make a 'rope coil socket'. The loom connector is in 3 parts, outer ring that holds the pin connector in place with red plastic locking 'pin', inner collar that needs the special tool, then the loom connector itself that fits through the cam bearing frame hole retained with a metal 'U' clip on the inside wall.

[Kyle_471]

OK mate thanks for that. Fingers crossed I've just not plugged it in right and I won't need to do it.

[DMitch16]

OK mate thanks for that. Fingers crossed I've just not plugged it in right and I won't need to do it.

I've a great engine workshop manual in PDF if you want it - PM me your email address and I'll send it over.

[Kyle_471]

I've a great engine workshop manual in PDF if you want it - PM me your email address and I'll send it over.

Awesome! Will do.

I've just been out before it got too dark, pulled the connector off 2 and 3. Checked the wires which look good from what I can see and I've cleaned the connections before putting back.

Cleared the codes and started the car which took a while.. The codes haven't returned but it still sounds shocking and seems like its misfiring.

[DMitch16]

Awesome! Will do.

I've just been out before it got too dark, pulled the connector off 2 and 3. Checked the wires which look good from what I can see and I've cleaned the connections before putting back.

Cleared the codes and started the car which took a while.. The codes haven't returned but it still sounds shocking and seems like its misfiring.

Have you checked the loom behind the cam cover as it occasionally drops onto the turbo heat shield and melts causing shorts and weird running / unrelated fault codes.

[DMitch16]

Also I clean my EGR Valve, Anti Shudder Valve unit ('throttle body' to use its incorrect terminology on a diesel) and intake manifold every 50k as they do gunk up with a soot paste over time. Mine has the original factory fitted intake parts which are still good at 215k - the regular clean seems to extend their life and keeps them freely moving. Diesel filter change every 10k as they are easy to do and the parts cheap (I buy several at a time when on offer).

[Kyle_471]

I cleaned the EGR and 'throttle body' a few weeks ago. Didn't do the intake manifold so I guess that will need doing too. They were crammed full of soot.

Diesel filter was done at the same time 👍
I'll have a look at the wiring to make sure too. Cheers

[Kyle_471]

Slight update, for the worse...

Checked the wiring, nothing looked to be melted or out of place. Wanted to see if the injector fault came back so I started the engine which needed a jump start.

I now have what sounds like a tractor engine that almost cuts out and there seems to be smoke coming from the turbo area..
I can't believe how bad this has got now.. Only bought the car a few months back and regretting it massively. Looks like I'll be on the train to work again this week.

Besides pulling the injectors and sending them for testing somewhere, replacing the loom and having all the timing checked I don't know what else to do.
Trouble is, if the injectors are tested they'll probably say they've had it and my only option then is recon ones. New are 500 each and the car was only 2,800.

[Kyle_471]

So I now have P1266 and P1270 for injector 3 and 4.

I've also done some research and it turns out the seimens pd injectors can't be tested or reconditioned?! 🤬

[DMitch16]

So I now have P1266 and P1270 for injector 3 and 4.

I've also done some research and it turns out the seimens pd injectors can't be tested or reconditioned?! 🤬

Course they can - I've seen them tested, dismantled, internal parts replaced, reassembled and retested in a German workshop many years ago a year or two after they found out they were flawed and the original design failing. They are fairly intricate inside and the process was fascinating to see first hand. Not tried it myself with a Siemens unit injector but I have had a common rail Bosch one apart and back together again.

Just to add the original issue was an internal short to the injector casing which means the internals have to be replaced with the improved design. The outer casing remains unchanged as far as I know.

[Kyle_471]

Afternoon Mitch,

Can you recommend anywhere that reconditions them? The few local places all say they're unable.

"We cannot test or repair. Nobody can they are main dealer only."

That's the response to one of my emails.

Cheers

[DMitch16]

Afternoon Mitch,

Can you recommend anywhere that reconditions them? The few local places all say they're unable.

"We cannot test or repair. Nobody can they are main dealer only."

That's the response to one of my emails.

Cheers

The reason why most workshops can't refurb the Siemens is that Siemens / VAG wouldn't supply the necessary parts to allow the injectors to be remanufactured creating a monopoly where they could charge stupid money even for the refurbished version let alone the new units. Some since the original issue have gained approval from Siemens to be able to remanufacture them but they are few and far between.

Give TT Auto (TT Automotive - Diesel system specialist - Experts in diesel pumps, diesel injectors, petrol injection, repairs and servicing. (www.ttauto.co.uk)) a call in Loughborough as they handle pretty much all the major brands including Siemens VDO which are refused by some. Otherwise it might have to be used units from somewhere as long as you get the right part number and not the faulty ones (there's some in circulation still of that I'm sure). Mine replaced via the VW campaign for free along with the loom that suffers due to the shorting also, have passed 120k mileage and still looked good when I pulled them for a seal change and clean around 20k or so ago.

Also give Diesel Bob (UK), http://www.dieselbob.co.uk, who merged with Ribble Valley Diesels a call as they might be able to give you an idea as to whether the engine can use Bosch unit injectors instead of the Siemens and how much work / cost is involved. They state they do not refurb Siemens VDO as there is a risk that the fault would not be removed and the damage as a result severe. Only Siemens approved businesses should be considered.

Perhaps Crasher will read this and add his professional expertise on this subject as he is in the trade.

[Kyle_471]

Just out of curiosity what injectors did you have? Do vw still replace them if they've not been done?

I've been looking into the bosch idea but not sure how viable it is.
Cheers again

[DMitch16]

The 170 injectors are said to be slightly different and have a part number of 03G 130 073 T whereas the 140, commonly a BKP engine, is part number 03G 130 073 S.

[Kyle_471]

03G130073T are those the ones that should of been replaced? Those are what I have.

I might give vw a call tomorrow and see what they say

[DMitch16]

03G130073T are those the ones that should of been replaced? Those are what I have.

I might give vw a call tomorrow and see what they say

No they will be the replacements. The faulty ones end in D or M which means the car has had the recall done.

[Kyle_471]

Afternoon,

I took your advice and contacted diesel Bob and tt auto.
Both of them responded saying they can't recondition then and nobody can.

Called vw and after being passed from pillar to post managed to find out they don't recondition which I suspected and a new injector is 319 plus vat.
TPS are the same price.

If it's just the 2 injectors with fault codes that need replacing that's still £765...

Nightmare from day one this car.

[DMitch16]

Afternoon,

I took your advice and contacted diesel Bob and tt auto.
Both of them responded saying they can't recondition then and nobody can.

Called vw and after being passed from pillar to post managed to find out they don't recondition which I suspected and a new injector is 319 plus vat.
TPS are the same price.

If it's just the 2 injectors with fault codes that need replacing that's still £765...

Nightmare from day one this car.

Oddly that is now relatively cheap as at the time of the recall they were £800 each! Still no comfort as £765 is still an ouch. Second hand is a bit pot luck but if you get a couple of good ones (tested - and they CAN be tested with the right rig setup) with the superceded part number then it might be a much cheaper fix.

I can't recall the name of the German refurbishment firm I visited several years ago with one of the VW Heads of Department (retired) but he is very sick with cancer so I would not like to bother him to ask at this time for obvious reasons. My Polish builder friend directed me to this site that does the same refurbishment at around £150 to £190 a unit (€600 special offer for 4) so they CAN be done, just most in the UK avoid them or do not have the necessary parts or equipment.

Pump injector SIEMENS (https://www.vp44diesel.de/en/Pump-injector-siemens)

are the Polish people named ZIPART.

[Kyle_471]

The issue I'm having now is that since I cleared the codes for the injectors when I took them out; now refit, I cant get them to come back. So I can't tell which are faulty.
I checked the continuity of the loom which is fine.
The car starts but runs really lumpy with a knock and a deep thud almost like a blowing exhaust but no codes.
I've tried reading the live data with the engine running. Nothings changed since the issue first started that I can see.

Cam lobes worn? Timing out? Loom dead? Injectors dead? Something else?
I have no idea with it now.

[LiamP1985]

I also have the G28 (engine speed sensor) fault. Car sometimes starts first time, other days it can take 6 attempts which can be embarrassing!! How much would it cost to have the sensor replaced? Thanks

[Kyle_471]

I also have the G28 (engine speed sensor) fault. Car sometimes starts first time, other days it can take 6 attempts which can be embarrassing!! How much would it cost to have the sensor replaced? Thanks

What car have you got mate?

I did mine myself so can't say how much, the part was relatively cheap but it's a pain in the *** to get to and required draining the oil to remove the oil cooler housing.
Can't imagine it being cheap tbh

[LiamP1985]

2007 2.0tdi. I’ve heard it’s a bugger to get to, just wondered how many hours labour the job needs.

[Kyle_471]

Well I'm still no further with this guys, the car refuses to start. There's a slight splutter every so often like it's going to but nothing.
I can't get the fault code to reappear so am a bit stuck for now.
Gonna have to try find someone local to Bingley, West Yorkshire with vcds and hopefully that will show more than obdeleven

[DMitch16]

Well I'm still no further with this guys, the car refuses to start. There's a slight splutter every so often like it's going to but nothing.
I can't get the fault code to reappear so am a bit stuck for now.
Gonna have to try find someone local to Bingley, West Yorkshire with vcds and hopefully that will show more than obdeleven

It will likely be a fuel issue if it is cranking quickly but not firing. You can test the fuel flow from the tank by disconnecting the feed to the filter housing. Should be around 0.4 to 0.5 bar (6 to 8 psi) when pump running but this is easy to see if you put the pipe into a glass bottle. A steady moderate flow if pump working when ignition put to on (don't start the engine for obvious reasons and use a second person to either put the ignition on or say stop at the bottle end....don't do this on your own! Safety first!). Anything less such as a trickle or spitting then fuel, is not reaching the filter housing correctly and pressure insufficient to TP for TP to supply enough pressure to injectors to allow them to function (may be some in built protection to not start if pressure low, I'm not sure). I have found crap in the fuel hoses between filter and TP and also seen the pipes put back on the wrong way around!

[Kyle_471]

Afternoon Mitch,
I've just had the lift pump out checked it over and put it back, tried your suggestion and there's a really good flow to the fuel filter without any crap coming through.
What do you suggest I test next?
Cheers

I've got crankshaft sensor fault again... Short circuit to b+

[Kyle_471]

Well...

The car started and still sounds crap and idles high. Its has now developed yet another fault..
Smoking white and smoking/hissing near the turbo..
Engine output test when doing egr cuts the engine out..
Maybe it's beyond repair

[DMitch16]

Well...

The car started and still sounds crap and idles high. Its has now developed yet another fault..
Smoking white and smoking/hissing near the turbo..
Engine output test when doing egr cuts the engine out..
Maybe it's beyond repair

Things I would check:-

The high idle might still indicate an electrical issue as the ECU receives many, many inputs to be able to calculate what to do with the injection of fuel and at what point in the stroke. A short anywhere in one of these input circuits is going to cause the ECU to adjust what it can or depending on what it is being told it may fault to a standard map. It seems the former in your case however. A short of the crank sensor will certainly cause the engine to labour when it starts as it will take its queue from the cam position sensor instead and cams rotate at half the crank speed so the ECU needs longer to decide where the crankshaft is before starting.

I'd also look at the static timing figures on VCDS perhaps even check the physical timing - needs a timing lock kit to check it though. By removing the plastic timing belt cover you will be able to see if anything is immediately wrong such as a badly worn tensioner or bent tensioner stud (these do shear off if not fitted properly and to correct torque specs.). At 112k or a full ten years old the engine should be part way through its 3rd belt as the change is 95k or 4 years whichever comes first. Do you have any history of the TB changes? I'd probably do this before subjecting the engine to any further punishment.

It may not be beyond repair but too much running it in the state it is presently may unfortunately get it there.

[Kyle_471]

Update; not a good one unfortunately.

So we've been doing some work on the passat recently, 2months off the road now.

I bought timing tools and this has now been set as it was slightly out. The injector adjustments were done also.

A check over some of the components in the engine bay revealed that the turbo bearings were shot, there had been a whine from the turbo. The impellor had left some nasty scratches on the housing and the turbines weren't spinning freely. New turbo bought and fit which was a pain in the backside on a drive with axle stands.

Lift pump checked and all fuel lines upto the tandem pump which was recently rebuilt.

Basically the majority of the components in the engine bay have been checked, cleaned or replaced where necessary.

The car eventually started but was misfiring alot and I suspect one of the injectors was stuck as the car was accelerating without pressing the pedal after a short time idling with the misfire.

There are still no fault codes to indicate which injector/s may be at fault so now I'm stuck. As far as I'm aware there's no way to test an injector to see if it's the culprit so without changing all four I'm stuck.

Expensive decision ahead of me unfortunately.

[DMitch16]

When you say the timing was out you may have to consider that it may not be injectors alone that are the issue. There may be a slightly bent or sticking valve. Have you tried to visually inspect the valve tops and springs, which is a tricky task due the the depth that they are seated in the head. I fortunately have access to a camera scope that can reach below the cams (which should also be inspected for any lobe wear - not common on the 2.0 billet cams but possible neverthless). I still have a spare set of billet camshafts which have minimal wear as I changed them as part of a head overhaul a fair while back because I couldn't refuse the offer of a pair of new ones for the price of one. Sooner or later it will get uneconomical to chase the problem possibly requiring head removal and deeper inspection of the engine - it's a painful decision. Some buy a refurbished or used engine, install it and then dismantle the old to find out what was wrong but each to their own.

Another thing - if you have VCDS checking the injection quantities under engine measuring blocks may give you an idea of what is going on with each injector under idle conditions and will certainly identify a bad injector.

[Gary03]

Reading down through this thread last hour,
White smoke can be a sign of incomplete combustion caused by low compression on one or more cylinders.
The OP stated that the valve timing was not accurate.
I'm starting to wonder if the previous owner/muppet has bent a valve or two and simply 'got rid'.
It would also explain the hard starting and lumpy idle.
Just a thought.
I'd like to see some compression values before throwing any more money at it personally speaking.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[spyderj]

I just posted this a few minutes ago:


This post is to inform others if they may be experiencing this issue of their car going to limp mode/shutting down while driving. Approximately 4 months ago, with about 175k miles, I was noticing that the car was shuddering/jerking intermittently. I had recently had my timing belt (http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_nkw=timing+belt) changed, so I thought maybe it was off a tooth. Then I began doing research online and thought it was my MAF sensor (http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_nkw=maf+sensor). I cleaned it and no change. After more research, I thought it was my DMF as it was knocking and needed to be changed. Changed the DMF, issue still present. I then heard it could be my EGR or DPF. I plugged in an OBDII and no codes were found.

I went to visit a friend and he did a quick search online and found a post that revealed the problem:

The main engine wire harness (http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_nkw=wire+harness) that goes between the engine block (http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_nkw=engine+block) and oil filter (http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_nkw=oil+filter) - was melted against the engine block (http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_nkw=engine+block) and was causing a short.

Here is the link to that post: Passat B6 CBAB engine cut off while driving - Page 2 (https://forums.ross-tech.com/showthread.php?13333-Passat-B6-CBAB-engine-cut-off-while-driving/page2&)

Here is a picture of my wire harness: http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35977&d=1559652248&thumb=1 (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=35977&d=1559652248)

The fix: Pulled it away from the block. There was no major compromise of the wiring, so I will likely be adding new heat tape. Since pulling it away from the block, I have not been able to replicate the fault.

Hope this helps!

[DMitch16]

This can be quite common on BMR engines as it happened to me. High idle, cutting out, limp mode, a random crank sensor fault (red herring). On the BMR the DPF pressure sensor, vacuum actuator and turbo actuator position sensor is contained in a loom above and across the turbo heat shield - if it slips down it will melt onto the heat shield as it did with mine causing a short that the ECU finds difficult to interpret. Op should check this one first if not already done.

[DieselMonster]

Very interesting post spiderj, I know a car that enjoys juddering and goes into limp mode and turning it off and on cures it. However it never turns it self off and only occurs on motorway, after many months I still don't have clue what causes it.

[Kyle_471]

Afternoon all,

I've not had much time to look at the car lately.

I've searched for some compression testers to check that as advised however it seems all the attachments for the glow plugs are m10 and mine are m8. I'm assuming that means I'll have to get an attachment to fit the injector port?

I'll have a check on the wiring close to the engine block, I've been in that area and don't remember seeing anything out of place but I wasn't actively looking for that.

Can anyone confirm the glow plugs are m8 and give me a link to a compression tester that will do the job?

Cheers

[DMitch16]

Afternoon all,

I've not had much time to look at the car lately.

I've searched for some compression testers to check that as advised however it seems all the attachments for the glow plugs are m10 and mine are m8. I'm assuming that means I'll have to get an attachment to fit the injector port?

I'll have a check on the wiring close to the engine block, I've been in that area and don't remember seeing anything out of place but I wasn't actively looking for that.

Can anyone confirm the glow plugs are m8 and give me a link to a compression tester that will do the job?

Cheers

Yes BMR plugs are M8. Laser do an M8 compression adapter available from some sites for around £21. Most cheap diesel compression kits don't have the M8 dummy glow plug and concentrate on the more abundant M10 sizes. A Master kit would include such but cost an arm and a leg and an injector port plug means popping injectors which I prefer not to do as each time they are out and in again you are compromising the seal and should use new stretchy injector mounting bolts.

[Kyle_471]

Nice one Mitch, I'll have a look for an adapter. I hoped my mate would of had a compression tester to lend me but he doesn't.
Be around 50 for the tester and adapter I think.
I'll post next week once I've done it.

What pressures should I be getting?

Cheers

[DMitch16]

25 to 31 bar (360 to 450psi) is normal for a VW Tdi but higher powered units can reach 34 bar or higher (500+ psi). You certainly don't want less than 19 bar (275 psi) and even then a BMR in top order should be pushing to the top end of the scale, possibly more. Differences of 5 bar (70 psi) or more between cylinders indicates a significant problem.

Don't forget to pull the fuel pump fuse before you crank the engine. Some disconnect the injector loom which has and added bonus of disconnecting the glow plug circuit. On a PD it can get messy as she'll still move the oil of course but not the enormous mess that you get if she fires up without the cover on - yep been there! I had the head surrounded by rags, more at the back as the engine is tilted.

[Kyle_471]

Morning,

I've not managed to find the right compression testing kit yet. I've seen the laser adapter which is m8x1 x 115 if I remember correctly. Will that do the job?
Will it connect to one of the cheaper testers?

If you could give me some links that would be awesome.

I currently have the injectors out so could just use an injector adapter but again I don't know which one will fit.

A slight bit of progress, kind of. I had the use of another vehicle with the same engine, I popped my injectors in there and read the values which were all around +/- 0.3 so decent.

I'm thinking something must be bent somewhere so I'll have to buy a kit for compression test.

Cheers

[DMitch16]

Plenty of stuff out there if you search for it. I'm not called Google so can only give you links to stuff I have already found.

You could get one of these to adapt to a standard set

Sykes Pickavant 31423170 M8 x 1.00mm Glow Plug diesel compression adaptor kit | eBay (https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sykes-Pickavant-31423170-M8-x-1-00mm-Glow-Plug-diesel-compression-adaptor-kit/272917812153?ul_ref=http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?ff3=2&pub=5575376664&toolid=10001&campid=5338268676&customid=Cj0KCQjwpavpBRDQARIsAPfTwixWUJdHsD8pMCoQe AY3EhD2q-Ny6i3G88rwqABaTGfHla5a4PNYIHUaAkjyEALw_wcB&lgeo=1&item=272917812153&srcrot=710-53481-19255-0&rvr_id=2041274104154&rvr_ts=f2272a9d16b0aadccf906e27ffd9b8ce&_mwBanner=1&_rdt=1&ul_noapp=true&pageci=28215c31-542b-4af1-9dd2-cae0a83d83a4&epid=28008795846)

The Passat Tdi engines only use M8 and M10 glow plugs so it shouldn't be hard to find something. If I couldn't find the right ones I'd make them - rubber tubing and connectors are abundant online. Make the right hose to screw into the glow plug hole and connect to the gauge. Pretty basic but it'll do the job.

[Kyle_471]

Afternoon guys,
Managed to get the compression test done today. All 4 cylinders are coming in at 400-420psi.
Any ideas what to look at next? I'm stumped

Cheers

[Kyle_471]

So I'm still struggling on with the passat.

The only fault code I have is for implausible signal for the crankshaft sensor. That's been replaced but the fault remains.
I'm assuming it's a wiring issue so I'm going to look at that.

I've seen the jettas had an issue with a connection in the wiring and there was a TPI to fix it. Is it likely that I could have the same issue?

[vrgafonso@gmail]

I have the same motor as you. The car it's stoped since 2019 because I don't find the issue and the problem star's after a injector error like you. After almost 5000€ spend and the car have continues stopped in the garage.
You have any ideas off the problem?

[DMitch16]

I have the same motor as you. The car it's stoped since 2019 because I don't find the issue and the problem star's after a injector error like you. After almost 5000€ spend and the car have continues stopped in the garage.
You have any ideas off the problem?

5000€! Sounds like a "parts cannon" has definitely been firing. Should have gone to a "proper shop" where they find the problem not replace parts to see if the fault goes away. Someone along the lines of Diagnose Dan on YouTube, proper mechanics/ auto electricians.

You could of had a low mileage replacement engine, ECU and engine loom fitted for that sort of money with change!

What has been replaced so far (so that I don't suggest items you have already had replaced)?

Do you have a list of current fault codes? If the situation like Kyle_471 in the last post had, from 2019, it is in my opinion definitely going to be a wiring issue and more than likely on a BMR, the loom at the rear of the engine above the hot stuff, the wiring from the ECU to the crank sensor or wiring has corroded elsewhere (fuse boxes / panels, battery contacts / connections, ground points and other loom wiring relating to the same circuit(s). Often shorts or breaks in the wiring elsewhere trigger unrelated fault codes in looms that trace back to the same point as the loom where the sensor has faulted, and these are usually the hardest to trace back.

Obviously I do not have the diagnosis and repair history for your car and the above would be my educated guess for Kyle_471.

[vrgafonso@gmail]

5000€! Sounds like a "parts cannon" has definitely been firing. Should have gone to a "proper shop" where they find the problem not replace parts to see if the fault goes away. Someone along the lines of Diagnose Dan on YouTube, proper mechanics/ auto electricians.

You could of had a low mileage replacement engine, ECU and engine loom fitted for that sort of money with change!

What has been replaced so far (so that I don't suggest items you have already had replaced)?

Do you have a list of current fault codes? If the situation like Kyle_471 in the last post had, from 2019, it is in my opinion definitely going to be a wiring issue and more than likely on a BMR, the loom at the rear of the engine above the hot stuff, the wiring from the ECU to the crank sensor or wiring has corroded elsewhere (fuse boxes / panels, battery contacts / connections, ground points and other loom wiring relating to the same circuit(s). Often shorts or breaks in the wiring elsewhere trigger unrelated fault codes in looms that trace back to the same point as the loom where the sensor has faulted, and these are usually the hardest to trace back.

Obviously I do not have the diagnosis and repair history for your car and the above would be my educated guess for Kyle_471.

Hi.
Everything starts with a problem with a electric pump, after that problem came the big problem... The fuel filter have a seel inside and when it was fitted a new one the seel came out and that ruin the injectors.
I sent the injectors to Germany and when they came the problem still there. I have sent the injectors again, the same... After that I have sent the injectors to Pologne twice and the problem still there. Replace turbo, all filters, vacuum lines, n75, maf sensor, cam sensor, turbo pressure sensor, all fluids, tandem pum, lift pump 2 times, timing belt...
I have replaced the injectors 4 times because the mechanic told me it's injectors, and one person from Bulgaria told me the same after sent logs from the car, told me the problem is the car don't have fuel enough.
The car is stoped since 2019 and all the money I have spent.
In my city don't have good mechanic for diagnostic the problem.
The car it's remap, I have insert the original file and no change nothing.
The cart have a hard star in the morning and the engine shake at idle, don't have enough power and consumes 10l/100km.
I think it's a lost problem...
Thanks for the reply

[DMitch16]

vrgafonso@gmail: Sounds like the initial diagnosis was wrong or those that replaced the various parts did not fully understand what the problem was (and still is). Is yours a Pumpe Düse (PD) engine or a Common Rail? There are not many places that profess to be able to refurbish Siemens Pumpe Düse injectors (especially in the UK) but I have heard that there are one or two places in Poland and other EU countries that offer PD refurbishment for a reasonable price (in the UK the PD injectors new are very, very expensive). Doing so should render the injectors good to use but they could be subsequently damaged if the original problem and cause is not found and rectified. Viewing the live ECU data when the engine is running, along with any fault codes would be my first step and an understanding of what the data is reporting is essential. Visible inspection of wiring and engine condition would also be one of my first steps as you can often find wear points in wiring, loom trap points, bad or corroded connectors and even others attempts at repair that may not have been successful.