A6 (C6) Avant 2.0 TDI Air Con Compressor Replacement Assistance

[rjsdavis]

Hello to all


Thanks in advance of any help I get on here. I've just bought a 2007 A6 2.0 TDI S-Line - 6 Speed Manual, and unsurprisingly, the "air con just needs a regas" turned out in fact to require a new compressor. Not shocked, and have had a local Kwik Fit attempt a regas - system holds pressure, but no cold air coming out, so very confident that the compressor is at fault. I'm aware that these fail and seize with age.


I don't have a spare £1k for a brand new Denso unit from TPS, therefore, am looking fo a breaker part. My question is about compatibility of parts/part numbers?


I know that the part number quoted to me by TPS, that is correct for my car is: 4F0260805AE


I've then found several brand new Denso units on eBay like this one:

Brand new original DENSO 8KD260805 AC Compressor for Audi A4 A6 A8 Q5 TDI TFSI | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161902859874?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)


I can then see that this listing lists a series of compatible Audi part numbers like:


8KD260805 ; 4F0260805AA ; 4F0260805AE ; 4F0260805AH ; 4F0260805AL ; 4F0260805AR ; 4F0260805T ; 8E0260805BP ; 8E0260805BS ; 8E0260805CB ; 8K0260805E ; 8K0260805L


Therefore, my question is;


Can I not then buy pretty much any 4F0260805** Denso part-numbered compressor - (where the star represents either one or two final letters)? I'm looking at a number on eBay, and they all seem to be identical, and seem to be for all sorts of different Audi's (including my A6), from A4's to A5's and different VW's and Skoda's?


Thanks again for any help in advance!

[rowdy-999]

Hello to all


Thanks in advance of any help I get on here. I've just bought a 2007 A6 2.0 TDI S-Line - 6 Speed Manual, and unsurprisingly, the "air con just needs a regas" turned out in fact to require a new compressor. Not shocked, and have had a local Kwik Fit attempt a regas - system holds pressure, but no cold air coming out, so very confident that the compressor is at fault. I'm aware that these fail and seize with age.


I don't have a spare £1k for a brand new Denso unit from TPS, therefore, am looking fo a breaker part. My question is about compatibility of parts/part numbers?


I know that the part number quoted to me by TPS, that is correct for my car is: 4F0260805AE


I've then found several brand new Denso units on eBay like this one:

Brand new original DENSO 8KD260805 AC Compressor for Audi A4 A6 A8 Q5 TDI TFSI | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161902859874?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)


I can then see that this listing lists a series of compatible Audi part numbers like:


8KD260805 ; 4F0260805AA ; 4F0260805AE ; 4F0260805AH ; 4F0260805AL ; 4F0260805AR ; 4F0260805T ; 8E0260805BP ; 8E0260805BS ; 8E0260805CB ; 8K0260805E ; 8K0260805L


Therefore, my question is;


Can I not then buy pretty much any 4F0260805** Denso part-numbered compressor - (where the star represents either one or two final letters)? I'm looking at a number on eBay, and they all seem to be identical, and seem to be for all sorts of different Audi's (including my A6), from A4's to A5's and different VW's and Skoda's?


Thanks again for any help in advance!


How do you know it needs a new compressor

[rjsdavis]

How do you know it needs a new compressor

Because the system holds pressure, but no cold air comes out at all - only ambient temperature air.

Are you suggesting another potential cause of the air-con issue?

[rowdy-999]

I would check for fault codes with VCDS (or similar). You're not taking kwikfits advice are you?
More than likely a cheapish pressure sensor required.

[rjsdavis]

I would check for fault codes with VCDS (or similar). You're not taking kwikfits advice are you?
More than likely a cheapish pressure sensor required.

Thanks for this suggestion. Sadly, I don't have a VCDS system or access to one!

No, I'm not taking Kwik Fit's advice, but this isn't my first rodeo either. The last car had something similar, and the system is generally pretty straightforward - if it won't hold pressure, it's probably leaking from a pipe or a stone chipped condensor. If it's holding pressure fine and not blowing any air, more often than not a the compressor.

Is there dbase of VCDS forum users or something to read the fault codes? I did have an unrelated amberlight on the dash (which was a MAF "implausible" reading warning) which was cleared.

[dan2485]

For the compressor clutch to operate the pressure switch must be working.

You need to get a scan done to see if you have a fault with the G395 pressure switch.

If change the compressor and its a pressure switch issue then you thrown away alot of money.

Use the VCDS Map to see if someone will help you with a scan.

[Rob69]

I think you'll find its more likely to be a switch fault or the clutch not engaging than the compressor itself. As with comments above, get it scanned first, check clutch engagement, use a direct test cable onto the electromagnet and turn the compressor by hand to check for non seizure. If the compressor is wrecked you'll need the system flushing, new filter drier, as well as the compressor. A new compressor in a dirty system will be a waste of money. See the vcds forum section for user locations.

[rowdy-999]

Audi compressors are pretty reliable. Other problems arise first.

[rjsdavis]

Audi compressors are pretty reliable. Other problems arise first.

Thanks very much for the recent posts about this - really appreciated. I managed to persuade our Land Rover mechanic to stick his Snap-On onto the car for a code read - it came up with two fault codes connected to the AirCon system:

1 - G348 - Air Outlet Sensor - Right Centre - Open Circuit/Short with power
2 - G395 - A/C Pressure / Temp Sensor - No Signal / No Communication

Therefore, as suggested above by Rowdy and Dan, the pressure switch does seem to be the culprit here.

I can get one later today from our local TPS - cost will be about £48 - is that about as good as it gets for price?

Also - is there is "How To" guide to pop it on by any chance somewhere? The car is booked in for a major timing belt service with a friend on Sunday, and he's ready to fit a compressor at the same time if necessary. However, the system is full of refrigerant at the moment, so it makes sense to see if I can get this fitted today and see if it works before arranging to have the refrigerant removed if I'm going to have to have the compressor fitted. I think I'm right in saying that the pressure switch just needs to be bolted onto the side of the condensor and sits on top of a schrader type valve, so minimal gas would leak out during the removal / fitting process?

Many thanks indeed for the replies thus far. Really appreciated.

[rowdy-999]

Yes, no pressure loss when fitting or removing the sensor.

[rjsdavis]

Yes, no pressure loss when fitting or removing the sensor.

Thanks. Is it as simply as unbolting the old, and bolting on the new? I am assuming that when a part like this is replaced, it won't need "activating" or "coding" into the computer's ECU or other such nonsense?

[rowdy-999]

Simply unscrews. No coding required.

[rjsdavis]

Right, I obtained a Hella pressure sensor from my local GSF yesterday, and fitted it this afternoon. Interesting side note - using the code "FORUM40" gets you a 40% discount off everything on their website! The sensor was £32.

Spent some time getting the bumper dropped off on the NS corner, and managed to break one of the headlamp washer unions (****!) so all of the washer fluid has now gone...

Anyway - removed the air con pressure sensor. New one on and put everything back together. No difference - air con is exactly as it was before.... (DOUBLE ****).

So, I'm thinking.... Are the reasons for this:

1 - That, after my friend read the G395 code the other day, and cleared it, that it would have reappeared in the ECU immediately after starting the car again to renew it as a "current" fault code? This being the case, does it therefore follow, that I would now need to have the G395 fault code cleared once again, now that the new sensor has been fitted, to effectively enable it?

2 - When Kwik Fit attempted the re-gas the other day and determined that the system wasn't working, would they have then removed all of the refrigerant out of the system before giving me the car back - therefore, preventing the system from working in any event, as there's no bloody refrigerant in the system?

3 - That the pressure sensor simply wasn't the fault, or worse, that the compressor is also at fault too?

Many thanks once again for any useful steers. It's getting warm, and I really, really need to get this fixed!!

[dan2485]

If you had no leaks in the system then there would no requirement for the gas to be removed.

I think that you need to get the code checked again.

The common failure on the sensor is for a plug wire to snap check the wiring to the G395 sensor plug.

When reading fulat codes you must determined when an code is generated if it's due to a failure or is it a sympton of something wrong with what ever the sensor read.

Your Code of G395 - A/C Pressure / Temp Sensor - No Signal / No Communication this means either the sensor is defective (you know that its not) or you have a wiring issue.


read this post.

http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php/182648-Air-con-G395-sensor-no-vaultage-help-please


If you need the wiring diagram PM me your email address.

[dan2485]

The hyerlinks are not working so copy and paste the post into your brower.

[rjsdavis]

Thanks very much for this post Dan, and for the link to the other thread.

I'm going to lay my hand on a CANBUS cable and a VCDS software set, so that I can get into the car and start looking further. I can't live with myself going up to my friendly LR mechanic and asking him to stick his SnapOn onto the car to clear / read fault codes! This thread will go quiet for a week or two whilst I wait for it to arrive.

Major timing belt service was completed today, but sadly my mechanics code reader wasn't compatible with many of the Audi systems - including air con, otherwise he would have cleared the current G395 code and hopefully that might have sparked the system into life now that the new pressure sensor is fitted :(

[k6rff]

Hi, just picked this up. I moved to Ludlow 1 year ago so I'm afraid I cannot be of much help. I still have the vcds canbus but I'd recommend owning one of these as it's always useful. Got me through a couple of arguments with Main dealer and was able to prove faults that they denied.

sorry I can't help.

[rjsdavis]

Damn!

Looks like the VCDS map isn't very uptodate :-( You were just a few hundred yards away from me too!

I'd love to have one, but the cost is particularly prohibitive for a genuine Ross-Tech cable.

[k6rff]

Well worth the 245 I paid a few years ago. Over the years that has become money well spent. Gets cheaper every new car.

[rjsdavis]

If you had no leaks in the system then there would no requirement for the gas to be removed.

I think that you need to get the code checked again.

The common failure on the sensor is for a plug wire to snap check the wiring to the G395 sensor plug.

When reading fulat codes you must determined when an code is generated if it's due to a failure or is it a sympton of something wrong with what ever the sensor read.

Your Code of G395 - A/C Pressure / Temp Sensor - No Signal / No Communication this means either the sensor is defective (you know that its not) or you have a wiring issue.


read this post.

http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php/182648-Air-con-G395-sensor-no-vaultage-help-please


If you need the wiring diagram PM me your email address.

Right, ok. I've now access to VCDS, and I think I'm making a little bit of progress....

1 - The pressure switch has been replaced. I've now been able to remove the DTC with VCDS and it has not returned. I therefore have confidence that the old pressure switch was faulty, and that there are no faults with the wiring. Sadly, this has not cured the problem!

2 - When I first ran the VCDS autoscan, I discovered that there were some other problems shown. Most of them were "voltage related", and I had also had a few occasions where, despite the battery really should have been full, I would find that the car would not even attempt to turnover if the key was left in the ignition for a few minutes whilst the laptop was connected to the car. Completed two battery tests today, and both reckoned the battery was ******. Obtained a brand new Yuasa 5000 900A unit from TPS for £115 and it's in. Car definitely seems to better for it.

3 - Re-ran the VCDS auto-scan. I've some minor problems that need addressing, but I'm still getting:

01858 - Air Outlet Sensor; Right Center (G348)
010 - Open or Short to Plus
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101010
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 167
Mileage: 293066 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.06.12
Time: 19:16:25

No matter how frequently it's cleared, it returns immediately. Could this stop the A/C system from working?

4 - After sorting the pressure switch issue, I popped into my local Kwik-Fit for a free re-gas attempt. (It's free if it doesn't work and I was quite happy to pay them if it did!!). They confirmed, again, that the system is holding good pressure (VCDS also confirms 5.6bar in the system, so this appears to be accurate), but sadly, it made no difference...

I spent some time with the mechanic, and we could see that:

* The clutch pulley on the compressor is always turning, no matter whether the system is off or on. He wasn't sure, but he thought that it should disengage if the system was off. Is this correct?
* The condensor fan runs when the a/c system is on, and turns off when the system is off - this appears to be correct and working ok.
* The condensor is ok, holding pressure and not leaking

Therefore, based on the diagnosis today - I appear to be back where I started thinking that the compressor (or maybe just the clutch?) is ******?

5 - I've worked out how to more useful data from the VCDS system about the HVAC system that appears to be helpful:

0.650 A A/C Regulating Valve (N280)
64.0 % A/C Regulating Valve (N280)
5.6 bar Refrigerant Circuit Pressure
0.0 Current Shut-Off Condition
12.0 Last Shut-Off Condition
3.0 Last but One Shut-Off Condition
12.0 Last but Two Shut-Off Condition
226.0 Current Value
227.0 Specified Value
31.0 Minimum Position (Lower Stop/Close)
222.0 Maximum Position (Upper Stop/Open)
173.0 Centre Left Vent Sensor (G347)
253.0 Centre Right Vent Sensor (G348)
4.90 V Voltage (5V)
13.60 V Voltage (Terminal 15)
24.0°C Left Vent (G150) Temperature
24.0°C Right Vent (G151) Temperature
Not Occup. Center Vent (G191) Temperature
23.0°C Evaporator (G263) Temperature
20.0°C Air Intake (G89) Temperature
20.0°C Ambient (G17) Temperature
25.0°C Dash Panel (G56) Temperature
25.0°C Dash Panel (G56) Temperature
2940 /min Temp. Sensor Blower Speed
74.0°C Coolant Temperature
ON Idle Speed Increase Request
840 /min Engine Speed
0.0 km/h Vehicle Speed
0.0 Compressor Torque Status
3.5 Nm Compressor Torque
7.0 Air Quality Sensor (G238)
60.0 Fresh/Recirculated Air Request
R.wn.h.OFF Button Status
0.0 Actual Speed Cool. Pump (V50)
0.0 Lower Speed Limit Cool. Pump (V50)
0.0 Upper Speed Limit Cool. Pump (V50)
OFF Coolant Circ. Pump (V50)
5.8 bar Refrigerant Circuit Pressure
129.0°C Refrigerant Temperature
204.0 SW/HW-Version Press./Temp.Sens.
00000010 Status Refrigerant Press./Temp.Sens.

I think that the most useful data is possibly in these last few lines of data:

0.0 Actual Speed Cool. Pump (V50)
0.0 Lower Speed Limit Cool. Pump (V50)
0.0 Upper Speed Limit Cool. Pump (V50)
OFF Coolant Circ. Pump (V50)
5.8 bar Refrigerant Circuit Pressure

At the time of analysing this data, the car was running, and the A/C system was on and running, and set to 16 degrees (it was a warm evening, and the fans were blowing at around 10 or so) - however, if I am reading this correctly, it seems to be saying that the Coolant Circ Pump is "OFF" - is this coolant as in "engine coolant" i.e. keeping the engine from overheating, or does this mean the compressor? Now that I type this, I suspect I've mis-read this, hoping that it was a/c related, and it's actually probably engine coolant related! Gggrrrrr.....

Oh well - I thought it was useful!

Anyway, I am where I am:

* Pressure switch is new
* Pressure switch wiring appears to have no faults
* System pressure is good
* Condensor is not cracked and leaking
* System is full of refrigerant

Surely this means that the compressor/clutch is buggered, and I need to get this replaced? I do have a spare compressor now ready to fit, but before going through the agg of swapping in the new one, is there anything else I should be checking or ruling out before doing this?

Many, many thanks for any help offered... and thanks for the replies thus far!

[kite]

Have a look here for vent sensor location.

Audi Portal: Sensors Diagnostic . Audi A6 4F (2005- ). G348 Îïèñàíèå (www.audi-portal.com/en/diagnostic/sensors_17241.html)

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[rowdy-999]

Right, ok. I've now access to VCDS, and I think I'm making a little bit of progress....

* The clutch pulley on the compressor is always turning, no matter whether the system is off or on. He wasn't sure, but he thought that it should disengage if the system was off. Is this correct?





Not all compressors use a clutch in the pulley. So the pulley always rotating could be normal.
Mine doesn't. Its a denso unit.

The alloy a/c pipes with the valves on near the bulk head,.......do they get cold when the a/c is 'running'?

[rjsdavis]

Not all compressors use a clutch in the pulley. So the pulley always rotating could be normal.
Mine doesn't. Its a denso unit.

The alloy a/c pipes with the valves on near the bulk head,.......do they get cold when the a/c is 'running'?

Hi Rowdy

Thanks for this - I appreciate what you are saying, and I don't know if the one on the A6 should have a clutch in the pulley or not. Is there a way to tell? I have a spare unit ready to fit, so can have a close look at this one right nowto investigate.... I was thinking that if the clutch had sheared (as appears to be a relatively common failure on these compressor units, I should be able to take the busted one off from the one on the car, and swap it with the one that's ready to fit?) (thus allowing the refrigerant to remain in the system?)

In respect of the pipes - No, I checked this on Wednesday when the re-gass was attempted. Neither of the two pipes was getting remotely cold, and I was aware that one of them should be! :-(

[rjsdavis]

Have a look here for vent sensor location.

Audi Portal: Sensors Diagnostic . Audi A6 4F (2005- ). G348 Îïèñàíèå (http://www.audi-portal.com/en/diagnostic/sensors_17241.html)

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Hi Kite

Thank you for this link - I think I might be able to resolve this now...

Correct me if I am wrong, and I am simply using the small diagram in the posted link, but the sensor is actually linked to the vent? Ifso, the explanation might just be, that the left-hand (as you look at it) centre vent has been broken where some utter numpty has attached a Parrot bluetooth screen to the vent itself. When you remove the vent, one of the venetian style vent flaps is completely missing, but you can see that the vent itself is broken. I'm assuming that this is the cause for this sensor issue?

Is the cure to simply replace the single broken vent? Or both vents?

Is there a link to show how to easily remove these little blighters without damaging them with some pics?

Many thanks indeed for this... I think that's just help me to get right on track with this particular DTC!

[FLAPPERJACK76]

Looks more like the compressor to me. You have no shut off condition. You previously show 3 = low refrigerant 12= shut off via engine control via can now 0 so no reason to be shut off but the output is 3.5nm. The regulating valve has current. I think you need a compressor. You have to change the complete compressor. If you find black particles or swarf inside the compressor when you remove the ac pipes then the system will need flushing or you be back to square one shortly after replacement.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[rjsdavis]

Looks more like the compressor to me. You have no shut off condition. You previously show 3 = low refrigerant 12= shut off via engine control via can now 0 so no reason to be shut off but the output is 3.5nm. The regulating valve has current. I think you need a compressor. You have to change the complete compressor. If you find black particles or swarf inside the compressor when you remove the ac pipes then the system will need flushing or you be back to square one shortly after replacement.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Thanks for the reply Flapperjack.

I'm hearing you. What would the particles / swarf mean if they were there?

[FLAPPERJACK76]

Means the old compressor has started to seize internally. If those bits remain in the system it will get into the new compressor and seize the new compressor.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[rjsdavis]

Ok - that's understood and fine. It's going to need to completely refilling as all of the refrigerant will have to come out before the new compressor can be fitted in any event!

[rowdy-999]

I've been having similar a/c woes. Fault code was for the pressure sensor so I replaced with a new hella unit. It made no difference, I tried another hella sensor with no luck still.
In the end I fitted a oe sensor and it worked.
The hella part number was even checked by hella as correct.
I did still get a g65 code with it though.....outside of tolerance. It read the pressure too high and cut off the pump.
Food for thought.....

[rjsdavis]

I've been having similar a/c woes. Fault code was for the pressure sensor so I replaced with a new hella unit. It made no difference, I tried another hella sensor with no luck still.
In the end I fitted a oe sensor and it worked.
The hella part number was even checked by hella as correct.
I did still get a g65 code with it though.....outside of tolerance. It read the pressure too high and cut off the pump.
Food for thought.....

Did you continue to receive the G395 DTC after fitting the replacement Hella units? Presumably, this then disappeared after the genuine VAG part was fitted?

[rowdy-999]

Did you continue to receive the G395 DTC after fitting the replacement Hella units? Presumably, this then disappeared after the genuine VAG part was fitted?

Yes i still got a pressure sensor fault code. No codes now.

[54A4Avant]

This is the eBay listing I just bought from, pics of the item in the other thread. Looks like a genuine item, but what do I know. Cheaper than a Hella unit in any case but I've not yet fitted it to the car so can't vouch for it. NEW A/C PRESSURE SENSOR AIR CONDITIONING AUDI A3 A4 A5 A6 A7 A8 Q5 R8 4H0959126A | eBay (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162050602895)

[rjsdavis]

I've then found several brand new Denso units on eBay like this one:

Brand new original DENSO 8KD260805 AC Compressor for Audi A4 A6 A8 Q5 TDI TFSI | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161902859874?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)


I can then see that this listing lists a series of compatible Audi part numbers like:


8KD260805 ; 4F0260805AA ; 4F0260805AE ; 4F0260805AH ; 4F0260805AL ; 4F0260805AR ; 4F0260805T ; 8E0260805BP ; 8E0260805BS ; 8E0260805CB ; 8K0260805E ; 8K0260805L


Therefore, my question is;


Can I not then buy pretty much any 4F0260805** Denso part-numbered compressor - (where the star represents either one or two final letters)? I'm looking at a number on eBay, and they all seem to be identical, and seem to be for all sorts of different Audi's (including my A6), from A4's to A5's and different VW's and Skoda's?


Thanks again for any help in advance!

I can now answer my own question from the OP. The answer is a big fat NO.

I took a risk on buying a breaker part - which was part number 4F0260805F

As you'll note, this is not in the list of red "compatible" part numbers from the list. I guess I should have just stuck to my own intuition... When we went to fit the replacement (ending in F) this morning, we found that the pulley is about an inch in diameter bigger than the cheap chinese crap that is presently on my car. Consequently, even with the tensioner fully tensioned, the aux belt simply wasn't going to go back onto all of the pulleys... AAARRRRGGGGHHHHHHH :zx11:

Therefore, this one will go back, and I'll get one from my list of red compatible part numbers.

The one positive from today, is that when the old compressor was off, it was very clear that the pump was completely ineffective and there was no noise from the pistons whatsoever when you turned the pulley round by hand.

Also - passenger door lock is now replaced. Overall, I've now only got two DTC's to resolve:

1 - bootlid catch (same issue as the passenger door)
2 - The elusive HVAC air vent sensor (will come back to that shortly in the next post).

oh, and getting the bloody air-con freezing my n*** off again sometime very soon!

[rjsdavis]

Have a look here for vent sensor location.

Audi Portal: Sensors Diagnostic . Audi A6 4F (2005- ). G348 Îïèñàíèå (http://www.audi-portal.com/en/diagnostic/sensors_17241.html)

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Hello again Kite

I was wondering, as the left-hand (as you look at them) centre vent is broken, I was thinking that it would be easiest to simply replace the whole centre vent unit. However, it would appear, from looking at these pics, that the pair of centre vents removes in one whole unit along with the trim that surrounds the ignition barrel.

My question is - is the vent sensor actually included in what I am posting a pic of below?

It looks like it should be from the schematic that you've posted a link to - and it appears to be the solution, as it will replace the broken vent, and the faulty sensor in one go? I can see that there is one white plug on the rear of the unit, but would this also power/communicate with the air vent sensor, or is it just for the Hazard Lights/ESP panel/Pass Airbag light etc etc?


3338433385

[kite]

Hello again Kite

I was wondering, as the left-hand (as you look at them) centre vent is broken, I was thinking that it would be easiest to simply replace the whole centre vent unit. However, it would appear, from looking at these pics, that the pair of centre vents removes in one whole unit along with the trim that surrounds the ignition barrel.

My question is - is the vent sensor actually included in what I am posting a pic of below?

It looks like it should be from the schematic that you've posted a link to - and it appears to be the solution, as it will replace the broken vent, and the faulty sensor in one go? I can see that there is one white plug on the rear of the unit, but would this also power/communicate with the air vent sensor, or is it just for the Hazard Lights/ESP panel/Pass Airbag light etc etc?


3338433385
I have no idea regarding the wiring.
Try looking for an online schematic or manual.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[rjsdavis]

I have no idea regarding the wiring.
Try looking for an online schematic or manual.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Already have done.

Sorry, I thought you knew about this vent unit and the sensor given your earlier post...

[rjsdavis]

RESOLVED!

Ok, I can now answer my own question from my own OP. Yes, the codes in RED in the parts number list in the OP do all swap with one another.

I noticed that on the correct compressor (ending in AE as specified by TPS) for my car, that on the Audi part number plate on the side of the unit it stated that it was 130cm2. I don't know if this relates to the internal chamber volume, or the external pulley wheel size, but only other compressors, that also stated 130cm2 on the plate, are inter-compatible. Those that state 150cm2 are not compatible with my car. It was made all the harder by the previous owner being a cheapskate tossbag and sticking some cheap Chinese crap on the car (compressor) that had failed. (I won't go into how I can now see that he hadn't serviced the bloody thing in the three years he'd owned it either!!)

I initially ordered a unit that ended in a final letter of F. This had 150cm2 on the side of the Audi plate. The pulley was too big (about an inch bigger in diameter to the 130cm2 units), and the aux belt couldn't be fitted back on, when the incorrect compressor was fitted. I can't tell you what a ball-ache that little episode was!

However, I've recently received a compressor ending in the letter T, (which was in my original OP parts number list), and this fitted perfectly and had the smaller pulley wheel size. I'd abused KiwkFit twice previously with attempted re-gas charges to see if I could get it to work (they don't charge you if the recharge doesn't work), and they'd both failed. It was only right that I took it back there for the third time when the correct compressor was finally on. It's now all working, and what a boon it is to have working ice cold air-con in this heat!

So:

Compressor - £60 (Breaker)
Pressure Switch - £36 (GSF)
KwikFit Recharge - £49.99

Total - £146 all in. Not too bad, but with a lot of time to diagnose and eliminate by me and on here.

All working. What would that little lot have cost at the main *******? £1200-1500 I reckon for a brand new Denso compressor (£1k+) and everything else, if not even more and nearer £2k!

[rjsdavis]

Hello again Kite

I was wondering, as the left-hand (as you look at them) centre vent is broken, I was thinking that it would be easiest to simply replace the whole centre vent unit. However, it would appear, from looking at these pics, that the pair of centre vents removes in one whole unit along with the trim that surrounds the ignition barrel.

My question is - is the vent sensor actually included in what I am posting a pic of below?

It looks like it should be from the schematic that you've posted a link to - and it appears to be the solution, as it will replace the broken vent, and the faulty sensor in one go? I can see that there is one white plug on the rear of the unit, but would this also power/communicate with the air vent sensor, or is it just for the Hazard Lights/ESP panel/Pass Airbag light etc etc?


3338433385

Hello to anyone that might be reading this.

Whilst the air-con is now working again, which is marvellous, I'm still getting the:

01858 - Air Outlet Sensor; Right Center (G348) DTC

Whilst it clearly isn't stopping the air-con from working (which is good!), I'd like to sort it and get it cleared. Does anyone know if replacing the centre air vents, by simply popping on a new replacement facia panel as shown above (assuming it works!) should resolve the Air Outlet Sensor issue?

I know it's a relatively minor issue, but I'd still like to get it sorted if I can.

Many thanks