A couple of electrical gremlins on my budget A4 B6

[Skezza]

Hello,

I mentioned the other day that I picked up my budget A4 1.8T. I am thoroughly enjoying driving it, however after a few days I've noticed a couple of electrical gremlins and my hope is some of you experts can help.

1. The boot solenoid is a having a bit of a mare. I think it's seized up. It will open the first time you put press the handle, but then if you close it, it will not open for several minutes. You hear the solenoid move when you press the button, but it simply doesn't work. I'm guessing this is just a new solenoid job right?

2. I mentioned in the other thread that the remotes don't seem to be coded. Well, it gets deeper than that. The remotes are indeed not coded, so the only way to open the car is by the key. When I open it, the rest of the car doesn't unlock. After about twenty seconds, the car goes ape **** and the indicators start flashing. I can only assume that the alarm is going off and the reason it's not firing is because the siren has been disconnected (or has a flat battery). Is there something wrong with the central locking mechanism in the door? I hope not, they're a pain in the **** to fix (had them go on other cars).

I'm going to try and code the remotes this week using VCDS, but hopefully you can advise me on the rest.

[niall campbell]

try oil on the lock and all workings, maybe prise open the motor and use white grease on the workings

how much is it to pair the keys to the car from Audi ? I know if you buy a fob & key its £180ish

I would want the remote control to work

[Skezza]

Hi Niall,

Thanks for your reply. Convenient actually, because I just ran VCDS full auto scan on the car and a whole load of electrical gremlins appeared on the fault list. Starting to worry that I've bought a lemon :'( Ahh well.

That said, just clearing the codes seems to have fixed the issue with central locking. It now opens properly off the key and the alarm doesn't work. However, I cannot program fobs. I follow the Ross-Tech instructions and get to Key Adjustment, it says 0 keys coded. I press 1 to code one key and it says Error, I press load and it says 0 again. So there's something wrong there. I'll post my full list of leccy gremlins for all of you Audi gurus to enjoy and pick at. In other words..... help?

So scan 1 resulted in this:

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.0Tuesday, 06 September 2016, 12:27:28:0
Control Module Part Number: 8E0 959 433 BD
Component and/or Version: Komfortgerát TBF 1110
Software Coding: 06859
Work Shop Code: WSC 63351
Additional Info: 8E2959802B Tõrsteuer.FS BRM 0002
Additional Info: 8E2959801B Tõrsteuer.BF BRM 0002
22 Faults Found:
01134 - Alarm Horn (H12)
49-00 - No Communications
01370 - Alarm triggered by Interior Monitoring
35-00 - -
00962 - Alarm via. Tilt Sensor
35-00 - -
01368 - Alarm triggered by Luggage Compartment Switch
35-00 - -
01369 - Alarm triggered by Hood Switch
35-00 - -
01374 - Alarm triggered by Terminal 15
35-00 - -
01371 - Alarm triggered by Door Contact Switch; Driver's Side
35-00 - -
01574 - Alarm triggered by Door Contact Switch; Right Rear
35-00 - -
01373 - Alarm triggered by Radio Ground Contact
35-00 - -
01561 - Left Rear Door
59-00 - Can't Unlock
01561 - Left Rear Door
61-00 - Won't De-Safe
01562 - Right Rear Door
59-00 - Can't Unlock
01562 - Right Rear Door
61-00 - Won't De-Safe
01366 - Opened Due to Crash Signal
36-10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
00956 - Key 2
35-00 - -
01559 - Drivers Door
59-10 - Can't Unlock - Intermittent
00932 - Electric Window Motor; Drivers Side (V147)
62-10 - No or Incorrect Adjustment - Intermittent
01801 - Door Warning Lamp; Drivers Side (W30)
57-10 - Electric Circuit Failure - Intermittent
01705 - Selection Switch for Mirror-Adjust (E48)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
01034 - Electric Window Thermal Protection Active; Driver
35-10 - - - Intermittent
00913 - Window Regulator Switch; Front Right Driver (E81)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
01811 - Supply Voltage for Door Controller; Drivers Side (J386) 37-10 - Faulty - Intermittent

I cleared them all, tried to program a remote key and tried again:


VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.0Tuesday, 06 September 2016, 13:04:25:0
Control Module Part Number: 8E0 959 433 BD
Component and/or Version: Komfortgerát TBF 1110
Software Coding: 06859
Work Shop Code: WSC 63351
Additional Info: 8E2959802B Tõrsteuer.FS BRM 0002
Additional Info: 8E2959801B Tõrsteuer.BF BRM 0002
6 Faults Found:
01134 - Alarm Horn (H12)
49-00 - No Communications
01561 - Left Rear Door
59-10 - Can't Unlock - Intermittent
01561 - Left Rear Door
61-10 - Won't De-Safe - Intermittent
01562 - Right Rear Door
59-10 - Can't Unlock - Intermittent
01562 - Right Rear Door
61-00 - Won't De-Safe
00956 - Key 2 35-00 - -

I also ran a scan on instruments I think it was, and got this:


VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.0Tuesday, 06 September 2016, 13:01:07:0
Control Module Part Number: 8E0 920 950 K
Component and/or Version: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. RB4 D35
Software Coding: 00400
Work Shop Code: WSC 00000
Additional Info: WAUZZZ8E13A118927 AUZ6Z0B0165346
1 Fault Found:
01176 - Key 07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

Finally, I ran a full scan and got this:


VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.0Tuesday, 06 September 2016, 12:41:42:0


Chassis Type: 8E - Audi A4 B6/B7
Scan: 01,02,03,08,09,0F,11,15,16,17,18,36,37,45,46,55,56 ,57,65,67,69,75,76,77

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 8E0-959-433-MIN.LBL
Controller:
Note: Excessive Comm Errors

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8E0-614-517.LBL
Controller: 8E0 614 517
Component: ABS/ESP front 1726
Coding: 04475
Shop #: WSC 06435
No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8E0-820-043.LBL
Controller: 8E0 820 043 H
Component: A4 Klimaautomat 1016
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 63351
4 Faults Found:
01809 - Actuating Motor for Temperature Flap; Left (V158)
41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent
01841 - Potentiometer/Actuator for Temperature Flap; Left (G220)
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
01842 - Potentiometer/Actuator for Temperature Flap; Right (G221)
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
00716 - Air recirculation Flap Positioning Motor (V113)
41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 8E0-907-279-8E2.LBL
Controller: 8E0 907 279 C
Component: int. Lastmodul RDW 0203
Coding: 00001
Shop #: WSC 63351
No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 8E0-959-655-84.LBL
Controller: 8E0 959 655 B
Component: Airbag 8.4EP 2000
Coding: 0010602
Shop #: WSC 63351
No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel Labels: 8E0-953-549.LBL
Controller: 8E0 953 549 F
Component: Lenksáulenmodul 0308
Coding: 00001
Shop #: WSC 63351
1 Fault Found:
00474 - Control Module for Immobilizer
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8E0-920-9xx-8E2.LBL
Controller: 8E0 920 950 K
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. RB4 D35
Coding: 00400
Shop #: WSC 00000
WAUZZZ8E13A118927 AUZ6Z0B0165346
1 Fault Found:
01176 - Key
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 8E0-920-9xx-8E2.LBL
Controller:
Note: Excessive Comm Errors

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio Labels: 8E0-035-1xx-56.LBL
Controller: 8E0 035 186
Component: concert II GRO 0008
Coding: 01001
Shop #: WSC 63351
1 Fault Found:
00852 - Loudspeaker(s); Front
36-10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
End --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



As you can see, plenty of stuff to fix. The car itself drives great, but despite loving electrical hackery, I hate electrical gremlins, they're always an utter pain. Anyway, I'll start going down the list and picking some out to look at.

[Skezza]

I'm going to try and adapt the remote from my other key tonight, perhaps this remote is actually faulty? It's hard to know without actually trying another remote.

[niall campbell]

can you put in new batteries for the remotes ? That might be the signal too low

will be interesting to see what the other key throws up

I don't have vcds, so cant help you with the key.

However for the heating controls, the motors can play up . If its a diesel just leave the aircon on all the time, you wont go through any more diesel and hopefully the motors stay in the correct position so they always work !

The motor for the boot might be a scrapyard job, or simply seized up with the previous owner never going in the boot or always in it

[Skezza]

OK, I've actually been able to adapt the remote using VCDS. Turns out the Ross Tech instructions, which are located here:

Ross-Tech: VAG-COM: Remote Control Matching Info (http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/vw-remote-matching.html)

Are actually wrong!!!

Because what they don't tell you, is a vital piece of information, which they do tell you here:

Audi A6 (4B) Central Locking - Ross-Tech Wiki (http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Audi_A6_(4B)_Central_Locking)

Specifically:

Choose the memory position you want the new key be matched on by entering it's number (e.g. "3" for memory position 3). Make sure to TYPE IN the number instead of scrolling up to it, otherwise you will not be able to click [Test]

And that absolutely describes the problem I was having, although I simply (and perhaps wrongly) assumed that it was just a software snag. If you type the value instead of pressing Up or Dn, then it offers you the button TEST. Press Test and press the remote, it then says Recognized and all of a sudden my remote seems to be working. Well, Lock and Unlock are. The Boot lid button doesn't seem to do anything, but perhaps that is model specific. Regardless, I'm chuffed to bits with that as a result.

With it coming into winter, I'm not too concerned with the HVAC electrical issues, I can probably solve them another time. It sounds as though perhaps it just needs re-calibrating. I am still quite concerned about these ones though:

01561 - Left Rear Door
59-10 - Can't Unlock - Intermittent
01561 - Left Rear Door
61-10 - Won't De-Safe - Intermittent
01562 - Right Rear Door
59-10 - Can't Unlock - Intermittent
01562 - Right Rear Door
61-00 - Won't De-Safe



As these are apparently the sign of a failing convenience control module. I've checked the doors and they do appear to lock and unlock properly. Taken me a while to understand what bloody De-Safe etc means but apparently it's possibly a sign of a failing deadlock, or a failing CCM. Also, these A4's are renowned for the water ingress in the plenums so I perhaps need to take a check on that to make sure this doesn't happen.

[Skezza]

can you put in new batteries for the remotes ? That might be the signal too low

will be interesting to see what the other key throws up

I don't have vcds, so cant help you with the key.

However for the heating controls, the motors can play up . If its a diesel just leave the aircon on all the time, you wont go through any more diesel and hopefully the motors stay in the correct position so they always work !

The motor for the boot might be a scrapyard job, or simply seized up with the previous owner never going in the boot or always in it
I think the signal being too low for the key might simply be a false positive because I wasn't coding it using the correct method. Will be interesting after I clear the codes later to see which ones return. I actually replaced the battery on the word of the dealer who sold it me, and assumed it'd be fixed. I also tried literally every manual re-adaptation solution on the Internet, and the one in the handbook, yet it simply wouldn't work. Good old VCDS saves the day, again!!

It's not a diesel, it's a petrol 1.8 20v, so I'm guessing I'll go through a bit more fuel? I've never owned a car with a proper HVAC, I'm used to old VW's with their crappy computer fans that barely blow enough air to get the cabin warm/cold.

I listened to the HVAC kick in earlier and it does sound like one of the flaps is maybe blocked, it keeps clicking. I'll try find a tutorial to access those fans and maybe with a calibration and fiddle I can get them working. It's never too big a deal around winter in England though, I prefer cold to warm ;)

[Skezza]

00474 - Control Module for Immobilizer

This one is worrying me too, although I suppose the best way to detect any immo issues is to simply drive the car. I'm yet to have any Immo issues other than discovering my second key has actually not been adapted, so only opens the car. Maybe I'll buy a VAG Commander or VAG-Tacho to obtain the SKC and program the key myself, either that or take a dealer. I'll have a think.

[GeorgeE]

The boot button only works when you press and hold it for a couple of seconds.

[Skezza]

The boot button only works when you press and hold it for a couple of seconds.
Ahh okay, I'll give that a go when I get outside ;) Does the car need to be unlocked ?

[GeorgeE]

Nope.

[Skezza]

So an update. Boot now works fine every time off the fob key, so I'm guessing it's a microswitch issue on the boot handle. I can live with that as I don't plan on using it very often. The fob will be much easier.

I cleared all of the faults on the convenience control and now only the Alarm one is coming back, which makes sense as we know my alarm isn't working properly. I checked the doors and they're definitely locking okay, so perhaps the central locking was just being messed around a bit. I might have a look at this repair:

http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/audi-a4-b6-alarm-siren-replace-nimh-batteries.90361/

As it looks to answer the questions I think I need answering.

Still no issues with the immobilizer, so I'm just going to drive it and enjoy it and clear anymore codes I might find while working on VCDS. I am hopefully fitting a MFSW + CC on Friday, so that'll be fun. All in all a positive experience here with some free fixes :D (Free is good, more beer money)

[Skezza]

So another update, cars running better now I've fixed a few gremlins, but some remain:

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.0
Thursday, 15 September 2016, 09:32:38:0
Control Module Part Number: 8E0 953 549 F
Component and/or Version: Lenksáulenmodul 0308
Software Coding: 00001
Work Shop Code: WSC 63351
1 Fault Found:
00474 - Control Module for Immobilizer
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent


VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.0
Thursday, 15 September 2016, 09:43:35:0
Control Module Part Number: 8E0 909 518 AA
Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/5VT 0001
Software Coding: 0011501
Work Shop Code: WSC 63351
2 Faults Found:
17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer
P1570 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
16395 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)
P0011 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent


VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.0
Thursday, 15 September 2016, 09:45:18:0
Control Module Part Number: 8E0 820 043 H
Component and/or Version: A4 Klimaautomat 1016
Software Coding: 00000
Work Shop Code: WSC 63351
1 Fault Found:
01809 - Actuating Motor for Temperature Flap; Left (V158)
41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent

I am particularly worried about that first one, but the car is yet to not start due to an immobilizer issue?

Apparently, I should be worried by this one:

16395 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)
P0011 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

As it can be caused by VVT? There's literally no info on the internet though beyond a couple of Golf's.

[Skezza]

OK, another update:

I've worked out the issue with the immobilizer + key. The locking pin/lock in the fob which secures the key in the open/extended position has never worked (since the day 1 of owning the car). You can release the key from the fob, but you don't need to actually press the button to return the key. Turns out, if I put the key in with the weight of the other keys on the pin, the fob drops to a 90 degree angle. In this position, the reader coil is unable to detect the immo chip.

To replicate it, I can collapse the fob partly, put the key in then turn the ignition on, the immo light illuminates indicating there is an issue and I am unable to start the car. Because it's an intermittent issue (and I assume because the immo reader detects the transponder initially) the ECU is clever enough not to cut the entire car out like in some other immo situations or activate the alarm. For the time being, I can put the keys in the other way round, however I will look at how to repair this because I'd rather the weight of the keys not be put on the key/barrel.

I also cleared the Engine fault code and it hasn't come back.

Touchwood!!! We're getting there.

[niall campbell]

so your getting two new fobs then ? You need a spare

[Skezza]

so your getting two new fobs then ? You need a spare
Ha, well I already have a spare. Unfortunately, I can't seem to code it (tried again this morning) and I can't get it apart to check if there's a transponder there or fit a new one. Going to try putting it in the oven on warm heat later (minus the remote part of course)

[niall campbell]

is there nothing on youtube in how to swap over to a new fob ?

There are companies on ebay etc who sell these fobs, maybe 2 button fobs to 3 upgrade , or want different colours etc

Audi is around £180 per fob & key cut with coding if I remember correctly

[Skezza]

is there nothing on youtube in how to swap over to a new fob ?

There are companies on ebay etc who sell these fobs, maybe 2 button fobs to 3 upgrade , or want different colours etc

Audi is around £180 per fob & key cut with coding if I remember correctly
It's not the fob that's the problem. I coded the remote on the fob this morning and it works fine. I'm pretty certain it's the transponder. It's either:

a. Never been coded and perhaps 'expired' or gone duff.
b. Has already been coded to another car.
c. Has no transponder in.

It's entirely possible that's it any of the above three. If I can get it open, I can get the old transponder out and replace it with a brand new one from eBay and then code it. I have the tools and my SKC so there's no reason I can't, other than not being able to get the ****** apart. :D