mk3 golf OBD port

[mick01]

In my 1997 mk3 golf 1.4 AEX engine code, there is the 16 pin OBD port beside the ash tray, connecting a basic fault code reader to it says "no connection", am I to assume this model is not OBD compliant? Also, what's this vag.com stuff all about, some form of diagnostic tool? if so, where do you get it from , is it any good, and would it work on my model of Golf, or do I have to rely on good old fashioned mechanical knowledge?

[Doctle Odd]

Basic OBD reader would be of little use, this would work it's the basic version of vag.com now called VCDS. What's wrong with the car?

http://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VAGUSB.html

[mick01]

Hi Doctle odd, and thanks for your brief reply. Only problem at present is the Mot emissions test which its failed twice with consistently high CO reading at high speed but not at idle. Can post readings if they make any sense to you? So far iv changed the lambda probe for a new one, Engine temp sensor (for a known good one), new air filter, plugs, oil etc, put some fuel cleaner in the tank, a high speed run prior to the mot test and again it failed, cat would be the next thing (by elimination), as the present one is aprox 3 years old and an after market one, so it may well be passed its best as it struggled to pass emissions test last year, but just scraped through. The car runs very well, is well maintained and good on fuel. I thought an OBD reader would highlight any problems, iv tried two OBD readers and both say "no connection". Im a competent home mechanic but never worked on OBD's before and not a computer GURU (computers weren't about when I was at school). so im intrigued by this VAG.COM idea, I saw your link to the connection lead, but what then? do I have to down load some soft ware, where from, is it free or expensive, how do you use it, is it any good and would it work on my car. Any advice you can tender is very welcome as im breaking new ground here. Thanks again.

[Doctle Odd]

Are there any leaks however small in the exhaust? If you replaced the lambda for a genuine one that just leaves the cat. VCDS (vag.com) requires a computer usually a laptop and the diagnostic cable. There is a free diownload of the software available from the developerwww.rosstech.com. The high readings suggest a leak/lambda/cat

[mick01]

No major exhaust leaks, one very minor one rearwards of the lambda and cat, so that shouldn't affect matters. Its a one piece down pipe which houses the lambda probe then a flange joint (leak free) straight into the cat. I'm lead to believe a high CO figure indicates a rich mixture (is that correct) ? So probably it is the cat, as iv changed all the other possibilities, or perhaps excess crankcase vent fumes entering the inlet air box would cause a rich mixture (but unlikely). Iv got the laptop so ill check the software you have mentioned, if it downloads ok ill go and purchase the connecting lead, but will that set up VCDS work on my age and model of car? Thanks for all the info.

[Doctle Odd]

Here is a link to the application data list for a 1996 Golf. It really doesn't cover a lot on those cars. If you don't have the CEL or check engine light on then your car isn't picking up on the fault. Is she a single point injection for the fuel? The unit could be over-fuelling. Is everything tight on the intake side of the engine ? To be honest VCDS won't do much for this car it relies more on old school diagnostics, here's the link anyway Ross-Tech: VAG-COM: Golf / Jetta Applications (http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/applications/golfjetta.html)

[mick01]

Hello there, mine is a 1997 model, anyway, no leaks on the intake side every thing seems tight, and no warning illuminations on the dash, I don't even know if there is an engine "check" or warning light fitted on this model. Its a multi point injection system and again every thing seems ok. I will check the link you have posted later on and see what it says, but if VCDS wont work on this car then yes its down to old school diagnostics. My thinking is - the lambda probe measures oxygen content in the exhaust gas, and then alters the fuelling to the point where there is NO Oxygen in the exhaust gas thus ensuring a complete burn of the fuel, so there for any excess crankcase or fuel vent canister fumes entering the air box would effectively be burnt, (is my thinking correct) ? Also the plugs are a good colour, but exhaust tail pipe a little sooty black, which tends to indicate a rich (ish) mixture. Also I believe, the cat should absorb some of the by products of combustion, namely CO (carbon monoxide) and if as I suspect the cat is buggered, this would give a high CO reading at the tail pipe. I chatted to the mechanic at the MOT place about this problem and whilst a pleasant chap he didn't know any more about the problem than you or I do. Thanks again, I will check the link posted and report back to you.

[Doctle Odd]

The data is the same for 1997, most of the OBD modules are for air-bags, ABS etc. Maybe you should ask Crasher of Zollaf of this parish, both are experts. I'm thinking CAT but it's a considerable expense especially if the diagnoses is wrong. Is there an EVAP cannister?

[mick01]

Yes there is an EVAP canister in the drivers side inner wing, not sure if that would have any bearing on the matter, as any vapour would be inducted by the engine and burnt and thus monitored by the lambda probe, ( or am I mistaken?) and yes a cat is expensive, hence (trying to save some money) by reading the OBD system if that's possible on this model. I checked the link you posted and the engine is one of the modules monitored, but whether that includes emissions I don't know, I didn't see any free download software on that site either. Any thing else you can suggest is most welcome. Thanks again.

[zollaf]

post the results.

[Doctle Odd]

Ross-Tech: VCDS-Lite: Download

https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?dg=feature&msa=0&mid=zwQHurSsCMz8.kMTwqF0PoXwc (http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/download/)

[Doctle Odd]

2nd link is for a map showing members of this site with VCDS they will scan your car. Just look for someone near you and send them a private message

[mick01]

Engine temp 80oC
1st fast Idle 2450-2850
CO 0.58 Max - 0.30
HC 51 Pass
Lambda 1.059 Fail - 0.970 - 1.030

2nd fast idle
CO 0.54 Fail max limit 0.30
HC 77 pass
Lambda 1.072 fail

natural Idle
CO 0.36 Pass max limit 0.50

Since that test result I changed the lambda probe for a new NTK one, and it failed again on High CO level, cant remember what the readings were second time as Iv lost the print out. Any advice is welcome. Thanks

[zollaf]

right, the lambda reading is high so it running rich. the cat is not the problem. if the lambda reading was right then i would blame the cat, but since lambda is high, then its got too much fuel going in. first thing to do is to get a computer on it and look for any codes and look at live data. it could be the cts sensor duff and it thinks the car is cold so its bunging too much fuel in. yours sin't obd compliant, but does have full diagnostic capabilities when the right computer is used. you need vcds or a high end computer like a bosch kts or my snap on modis, but they cost thousands.
also, the co on idle is higher than it should be.

[mick01]

Thanks for your comments, the above readings were from its first emissions test. Prior to the second test some days later I fitted a new Lambda probe and a CTS (a known good one), and it failed again, this time on High CO reading (sorry I don't have print out from second test) and as above the CO at idle IS BELOW the max limit. Can I down load this VCDS some where (preferably free) hook up my laptop to the car and run some sort of diagnosis - or is it a specialist job that will cost more than the car is worth?, I would hate this problem to get the better of me! so any further help appreciated Thanks.

[mick01]

thanks I shall look in to that!

[Doctle Odd]

Try replacing the known good CTS with a known new genuine one. Those little buggers cause a lot of issues

[mick01]

Yes, you have a point, I use the term "known good one" in that I had the same emissions issue last year and a new lambda and CTS sorted the problem, since then I changed the thermostat housing and it came with a new sensor and it was used in the first mot emissions test which failed, so I re-fitted the one from last year, but failed again. Dash board temp reads correct at 90oC, although it doesn't mean the CTS is OK, does it have to be genuine VW, or is GSF or euro car parts OK ? I feel as though we are grasping at straws here! Thanks anyway and keep the ideas coming.

[zollaf]

you are grasping at straws until you get it on a computer.

[mick01]

A fair point, but can I down load VCDS from some where, hook up my laptop and run a diagnostic check as iv asked earlier? I don't have the luxury of a few grand's worth of snap on computer as you do.

[Doctle Odd]

A fair point, but can I down load VCDS from some where, hook up my laptop and run a diagnostic check as iv asked earlier? I don't have the luxury of a few grand's worth of snap on computer as you do.

I posted a download link to VCDS lite. I also posted a link to members of this site with the full version of VCDS that would scan your car.

[mick01]

Thanks, Doctle Odd, I got the links and I will follow it up. it is just dis heartening that the stock answer on this forum seems to be "Stick it on a computer" when most home mechanics don't have this kit. But alas that seems to be how motoring is going these days, when I get the said gear or get it on a VCDS ill report back to you. Thanks again for all your help.

[zollaf]

what other answer do you want.
the only other way would be, replace the maf, cat, cts, fuel temp, injectors, etc.... and keep taking it back for a retest until it passes, eventually it will, but you will have probably run out of money to spend on it and the mot station will have told you not to come back. vw stuck a computer on it with very intelligent diagnostic capability so in the event of a problem you can interrogate it to find out whats wrong. for home mechanics it is a pain yes, but its how to do it, and vcds isn't actually that much money for what it does and will save you money in the long run. either that or you pay someone else to do it. there are also members with vcds who can help for beer tokens, if you can find one local.

[mick01]

VCDS downloaded today, connecting cable ordered, and a guy with full VCDS 10 miles away, all details provided care of (Doctle Odd, Many thanks), I just needed a bit of guidance through this "new" non mechanical world of diagnosis. Yes it may prove to be a good investment, but until iv got this computer kit, to the home mechanic it remains a pain in the F$$$$$$ Ar&&! I will keep you posted. And thanks again.

[Doctle Odd]

As Zollaf has said it's so much better than throwing parts at a car randomly until it's fixed. The days of the local mechanic "knowing" what's wrong are almost gone. Modern day mechanics scan first then interpret the results. A main dealer will charge around £100.00 for a diagnostic scan so most home mechanics, especially if they have a VAG car have their own diagnostic kit. I had an A4 years ago I did the work and the main dealer charged me €80.00 at that time to reset the service interval. Steep learning curve! Get the member scan done ask him questions and you'll see how useful a diagnostic device is.

[mick01]

You are absolutely right, and I don't mind investing in the kit, it is better than changing parts randomly in the hope it works. I was at a loss when the fault code readers didn't connect, then I was told it wasn't OBD compliant, then I thought about asking on this forum, didn't understand that VCDS could interrogate the ECU and read fault codes, so it been a learning process and im getting there, dragging my self kicking and screaming into the computer on car age! So iv successfully downloaded VCDS lite and the cable is ordered, but ill pursue the member scan first, as it would be good to see it done first and ask questions. Again many thanks for the links and advice, and I will post again to let you know how it progresses.

[Rob69]

Mick
I was pretty old school myself until I had a power problem (turned out to beMAF sensor problem) with my old SEAT cordoba tdi and realised the old days were done! I got an Autel 509 OBD scanner a while back which I seem to use more on other folks cars now and just keep in the glove box. I also had a good guy in our village who had VCDS and started to see the benefits of a full VAG diagnostic tool. A few months back I invested in my own VCDS lead and downloaded the full version, it has already paid for itself. Latest use was checking injection timing before and after cambelt change on my passat.
I now consider it to be one of the most powerfull tools in my box!

[zollaf]

unfortunately its just a fact of life these days. only this morning while listening to some music on an album mrs had downloaded from the internet and was playing on the mobile phone, and was transfering it to something else so it can play in the car, or in the s4 it can bluetooth it straight to the cars stereo (like ***), and there is me just wishing for a good old tape player so i can pop a tape in and press play. yep, computers are here to stay. get used to them or return to the dark ages.

[Doctle Odd]

Yet the sound quality on a vinyl record or 8 track tape was much purer than mp3s or digitally remastered cd's.

[Rob69]

I did have a mini disc player in a renault5, still couldnt drown out the whining and tinny rattles though.

[Doctle Odd]

I did have a mini disc player in a renault5, still couldnt drown out the whining and tinny rattles though.

You should never bring your missus out in a renault

[Rob69]

she was in the boot

[Doctle Odd]

My wife hates that

[mick01]

Thanks for your comments Rob, every one on this forum seems to recommend VCDS, so I will give it a go - out with the old and in with the new! I'll hold on to the spanners though as I doubt VCDS is any good at loosening seized nuts and bolts! Iv down loaded the "lite" version but cant progress till the cable arrives, incidentally what does the full version of VCDS cost, is it complex to operate or interpret, or is it straight forward? Being old school im not much of a computer "guru" got the basics but that's about it. Thanks again for your comments.

[Doctle Odd]

The old order changeth, yielding place to new. Tennyson :)

[mick01]

Aye, we must change with the times, me included "Who am I to stand in the way of progress" - Rab C Nesbit !

[Rob69]

Thanks for your comments Rob, every one on this forum seems to recommend VCDS, so I will give it a go - out with the old and in with the new! I'll hold on to the spanners though as I doubt VCDS is any good at loosening seized nuts and bolts! Iv down loaded the "lite" version but cant progress till the cable arrives, incidentally what does the full version of VCDS cost, is it complex to operate or interpret, or is it straight forward? Being old school im not much of a computer "guru" got the basics but that's about it. Thanks again for your comments.

Mick
I got my HEX+CAN version from Gendan, I don't think the lite version will connect to CAN vehicles with an ebay lead ( could be wrong!) It is not the most intuitive 'interface' to use but there are loads of how to guides out there and a dedicated VCDS forum here, I'm still just getting to grips, not a computer geek either, maybe best if you post a thread in the VCDS forum for more opinion?

[mick01]

Firstly, what does HEX+CAN mean, and indeed CAN ?, seen it mentioned on the ross tech site, but it means "sod all" to me! Im getting a lead from Gendan as recommended by Doctle Odd, not cheap rubbish off ebay, I did watch a video on the ross tech site, but id need to take notes to follow it all, Id rather get a member scan done first to see how it all works and ask questions but iv had no replies as yet, still early days, and ill give it a try my self when lead arrives, thanks again for your comments.

[Doctle Odd]

The newer VCDS cables are backward compatible but the older cables aren't capable of communicating with modern cars. There are a few handheld VAG scanners but IME they don't work well or at all with pre 1999 cars. You can buy a KKL cable for VCDS lite for a fiver or so on a well known auction site but it may not work and you'd become irritated with people because of it. Gendan have a good reputation and £20.00 is 1/5 of what a dealer will charge for a single scan.

[mick01]

That's the one I opted for £20 from Gendan, (as per your link) when it arrives ill give it a go. Do you know what HEX+CAN or indeed what CAN means ? I gather is a form of communication (I think) ?? Or am I completely wrong!

[Rob69]

That's the one I opted for £20 from Gendan, (as per your link) when it arrives ill give it a go. Do you know what HEX+CAN or indeed what CAN means ? I gather is a form of communication (I think) ?? Or am I completely wrong!

Mick
CAN: Controller Area Network, a data bus that allows the cars control modules or ECU's to communicate with each other, much more than that I could not say !!! Have a look on wiki to be bamboozled!

[SammoVWT]

You dont need a CAN bus, its a two wire (serial line - due to the number of electronic devices that need to talk, it saves on wiring and cost) and a different comms protocol which is not for this old golf. As long as it fits the OBD port (OBDII shape, but OBDI (KWP1281) protocol (old Vag standard before OBDII was standardised as far as I am aware). Its similar, but OBDII uses a faster protocol and different data addresses.

OBD is more of a COM port/Parallel port style. Very old school for those who remember windows 95 and earlier.

I should add the Hex part is the socket you want, it just means that it provides both connections.

[mick01]

Update - now that iv got the OBD port setup explained and sorted (see above thread), Iv had a member full VCDS scan carried out (thanks to ellibumpkins) whilst waiting for my own version of VCDS lite to arrive, and - NO fault codes found, then scanned with the lite version now that iv seen it done, again NO fault codes found. So to the emissions problem as discussed earlier, i.e. high CO reading, am I to assume that all engine sensors are ok e.g. CTS, MAP, LAMBDA PROBE, etc. And as all other engine aspects are in good order or new e.g. air filter, oil, plugs, HT leads, dizzy cap, crankcase breather pipes etc, this would lead me to conclude that the CAT is Fu+++d after all, am I right in this assumption, or am I missing some thing? Your comments / advice is most welcome. Thanks again.

[Doctle Odd]

You have a spurious cat that's several years old. I think thats your problem, the obly other thing that it can be is air getting into the system and a sensor should pick that up. Any leaks in the exhaust even a very small one can throw the emissions off. You'd maybe get a used genuine cat in a scrapyard? I'd be inclined to use a genuine CTS

[zollaf]

just because you have no fault codes doesn't mean there isn't a fault. the cts could be reading cold , you need to look in live data to see that.

[Doctle Odd]

just because you have no fault codes doesn't mean there isn't a fault. the cts could be reading cold , you need to look in live data to see that.

Can you see live data with VCDS lite ?

[zollaf]

absolutely no idea. you can with my snap on modis.

[Doctle Odd]

absolutely no idea. you can with my snap on modis.

LOL you'd buy a good few MK3's for the price of that bad boy

[zollaf]

indeed, although i had the pleasure of using the new modis ultra at another garage the other day. needed to do a smart car and i havn't afforded the latest update on mine yet, another grand. so he ultra is so much better, but sooooo expensive. although my dealer does offer me a good trade in on it....

[Doctle Odd]

I agree on the CTS he's using "a known good one" for 15 quid a new genuine one might solve his problem

[zollaf]

i had a similar one on my old 80 coupe. the cts was genuine but she always ran rich. just passed the mot but its one thats not in the book so doesn't need a cat test. eventually i get a new cts, just a cheap one, and the emissions went right down to what they should be. the old one was reading about 5 degrees colder. that was the one from the factory. problem is, the power went as well. always wondered why it was so quick and thats when we found out.

[Doctle Odd]

So the ECU thought it was colder and added a little extra fuel? Damn hard to do without a remap, that CTS was valuable!

[zollaf]

it was very valuable, wish i still had it. unfortunately the car met its maker soon after. i do miss her, those old 16v coupes were a joy to drive.

[Doctle Odd]

I just been to a local body shop. They're restoring a Toyota twin cam, it seems to be mostly Isopon, he said it's worth 16 grand I had to take half a white valium

[zollaf]

it might be worth that, like to see it sell. mind you, theres alway the one, knows bugger all, thinks filler is a good sign, too much money, why do they never want to buy my old cars.

[Doctle Odd]

it might be worth that, like to see it sell. mind you, theres alway the one, knows bugger all, thinks filler is a good sign, too much money, why do they never want to buy my old cars.

Young fellows here are crazy for those Toyotas. In fairness Alan has done a lot of welding too, had to remove all the loom, hours of work but its Japanese crap IMO

[zollaf]

thats one of the main reasons i like audi so much, no rust.

[Doctle Odd]

My dislike of Jap cars comes from the Burma railway :)

[Cavanmick]

Ae86 twin cams make ridiculous money in fairness, only good for donuts.

[mick01]

Well im shocked !!!! after following the "stock advice" its been stuck on a computer twice! and (No fault code found), now im told I cant rule out the engine sensors and I need "live data", so its back to grabbing at straws, and the expensive fantasy / ego of "my computer is bigger than yours"! Whilst I take Zollaf's very valid point about the CTS, lets stick to the facts. Two different CTS's have been fitted to no avail, granted not genuine VAG, but still failed emissions test, and yes a genuine VAG CTS @ £15 would be the logical and economic next step (even though VCDS does not show a fault with it) and the temp reading on the dash is 90oC as it should be, the car runs extremely well, doing 40mpg on the motorway (not bad for an 18 year old golf) so there isn't much wrong with it really, the complete exhaust including cat is three years old and aftermarket (not genuine vag) leaks a little and has a strange high pitch vibration on over run, last year the cat was treated to a prolonged and liberal dose of neat petrol due to a misfiring cylinder (duff plug lead), so its probably past its best, bearing in mind aftermarket cats don't have a great deal of filtering / absorbent material in them, so on balance my thoughts are- fit a new VAG CTS and a new exhaust complete with a decent cat. Thoughts and comments very welcome. Thanks again.

[zollaf]

first off, i use cts as an example of a sensor that could be duff, although a duff cts is quite commonplace. there are several sensors that could have failed to give a wrong reading and not produce a code. looking at te facts though, your lambda reading is high, indicating a rich mixture, so there is a problem. the cat could also be faulty especially now we know about the misfire. neat petrol does have a habit of killing them.
and yes, my computer is bigger, because it cost me the best part of 7 grand, but i could plug it into your car, or just about anything with the exception of a smart car, read for codes, then look at live data and tell you whats wrong. remember there are 2 temp sensors, one for the dash and 1 for the ecu, so a dash reading of 90 telle you that sensor is fine, but the other could be reading a bit lower, or an airflow sensor, or air temp sensor to name but a few. this is why garages like myself charge what we do though, expensive computer and the knowledge to use it means the car comes in, gets diagnosed correctly first time at a cost, but saves the customer from replacing parts that are not faulty, usually, although its not always straigh forwards.
anyway, you mention your exhaust leaks a bit, so first job is to make it leak not at all. any leak, even at the tailpipe can affect the mixture .

[Cavanmick]

Zollaf is 100% right on this, I'm fairly sure if you cure the leak in the exhaust it will bring your lambda readings into spec which will in turn alter the Co levels accordingly.

[zollaf]

its the first thing to do. make sure all the known wrongs are righted before doing anything.

[Doctle Odd]

I think this gentleman said in an earlier post that there were no leaks in the exhaust. Neat petrol would f**k a genuine one, and a spurious CTS. Hmmm

[mick01]

Zollaf, your points are taken on board, and as you are in the trade and this is your bread and butter then 7K on a computer is wholly acceptable. Im a home mechanic who now has £70 worth of VCDS lite, the whole idea is that it would pick up faulty sensors (why should I dis trust it) other wise its a waste of time, it does have a measuring block facility that does give some form of live data, but iv only had it two days and not too familiar with it yet. You state that a high lambda reading indicates a rich mixture, is this correct? My reading suggests it indicates a weak mixture, in that the higher the lambda reading the more oxygen is present, this is the calculated reading in the tail pipe from the emissions test gear at the MOT centre, and as iv now learned, yes a leaking exhaust would induce a flow of fresh air into the exhaust pipe and effectively dilute the exhaust gas giving a higher oxygen level and thus a high lambda reading? therefore the need to fix up the small leak that's present.I thought the high CO (carbon monoxide) level indicates a rich mixture as complete combustion hasn't taken place! or have i got it completely wrong? There is only one CTS on this car (as far as I can tell) but four wires to it - two feeds I assume, one to dash temp gauge and one to the ECU, but if they are a weak point on this model ill get a new genuine VAG part, but again why should I dis trust VCDS, surely it should be able to pin point duff sensors.

[zollaf]

too high lambda does indeed mean too weak, too much oxygen in the exhaust . get that exhaust fixed and i think it will sort that one out. the sensor is a 2 part sensor, 2 individual sensors in one package, one for the ecu, one for the dash. some cars have 2 individual ones, some have 1 combined. you can use measuring blocks to read the data it is providing the ecu. just becasue the one for the clocks works doesn't mean the other is working properly.

[Doctle Odd]

too high lambda does indeed mean too weak, too much oxygen in the exhaust . get that exhaust fixed and i think it will sort that one out. the sensor is a 2 part sensor, 2 individual sensors in one package, one for the ecu, one for the dash. some cars have 2 individual ones, some have 1 combined. you can use measuring blocks to read the data it is providing the ecu. just becasue the one for the clocks works doesn't mean the other is working properly.

Those oriental sensors seem designed to fool the ECU and maybe the cluster...

[mick01]

Thanks for the replies. So far iv learned that-an exhaust leak (no matter how small), will dilute the exhaust gas and produce a high Lambda reading, and that the consensus of opinion is that these NON VAG CTS sensors are unreliable. So these are the point I shall address first. As Cavanmick suggests, (fixing the small exhaust leak would bring the Lambda reading into spec and in turn alter the CO accordingly) how would this happen, I can now understand how fixing the exhaust leak would affect Lambda reading, but how would this also affect the CO reading, can some explain this to me?

[Cavanmick]

Lambda is a reading of the level of oxygen in the exhaust, if it's burning properly there should be very little oxygen left. When the exhaust is leaking it introduces oxygen into the system so if that's before the lambda sensor the vehicle thinks it's running lean and sends in more fuel hence the Co level rising. if it's leaking after the lambda the Mot emmisions tester will be picking up more oxygen than it should but the fuel mixture should be ok. A dodgy cts could make the engine think it's stone cold so will be over fuelling to allow for cold start.

[mick01]

Thanks for your explanation (which I understand), my exhaust has a slight leak aft of the cat and lambda probe, which would indeed be picked up as excess oxygen by the tail pipe test probe, the exhaust is completely air tight from front manifold to the joint after the cat, so why am I getting a high CO reading? Is it due to the much slated CTS sensor? which incidentally is not shown as faulty by the VCDS scan, but as stated by others doesn't necessarily mean its ok.

[Cavanmick]

It's certainly possible, if the cts is reading at all its won't show as faulty as the computer see it taking readings even if they are wrong readings, Co levels can be down to lots of things but I would also make sure all breather pipes and the firetrap in the rocker cover are clean and clear.

[JMR1]

in the past, I have refused restoration projects, but maybe time to re-think, give the kind of cash these ones are making....:confused:

[JMR1]

Was on a Toyota twin-cam restore article a minute ago, and posted the above on it... and now it appears here in OBD forum ?????:1zhelp:

[Doctle Odd]

Was on a Toyota twin-cam restore article a minute ago, and posted the above on it... and now it appears here in OBD forum ?????:1zhelp:

All car fans here, we spit on Toyotas, I won't say what we do to French cars ...

[mick01]

Sorry for the delay, finally sorted out emissions on the MK3 golf, checked it with vcds lite went to "measuring blocks" CTS readings (both) were in limits and lambda probe readings were correct. I managed to get a good (nearly new) cat from a scrap yard, plus a few other bits, and bought a new centre and rear exhaust, fitted it all and made sure it was "absolutely leak free", next day it passed the MOT, so I put it down to an small exhaust leak and a ***$$d cat - got there in the end, a big thank you to all who contributed.