Front strut pinch bolt (tips)

[spartacus 68]

Front ARB bushes at 125k. Couldn't get the rear ones - think they're a dealer only part. Although the seemed tight enough, you can see the difference compared to the new bushes. The new one is on the right.

Driver's side strut was a piece of cake. (Pinch bolt was off a couple of years ago - so lubed it up before refitting). Replaced both upper arms and top mount.

Passenger side was a different story. Give me strength... the bl**dy pinch bolt is seized surprise, surprise. :evil:

Must have whacked that bold for best part of 2 hours, wire-brushed it, WD40, and then a propane blowtorch. It hasn't moved. Any suggestions, otherwise it will have to wait until Monday and I can get the works mechanic on it with acetylene torch.. Was tempted to cut it then drill it out - probably more trouble than it's worth.

[a8 tech]

firstly never hit the bolt as it just swells and then your knackered

take the full suspension leg off and place in a vice then work the bolt, if it shears the head off then heat the wheel bearing housing around the bolt and hit with a proper punch and dead blow hammer

for me if the bolt doest move when trying to loosen its a sure sign its not going to be a 1 hour job and experience shows removing the full suspension is by far the easiest way as long as the track rod isnt seized as well lol

they are a *******

[spartacus 68]

Thanks for that. The tie-rod was done last year, so hopefully will shift okay, but to remove the strut assembly means disconnecting the brake disk, caliper, ABS connection, etc?

[a8 tech]

the problem you have is the bolt is rusted and swelled and you cant get a proper swing on the hammer or support the leg so the full force of the strike can not be achieved

you need a proper ball joint separator not the fork type as they just mangle the boots and the lower arm ball joints are very very tight

the abs loom can be disconnected from behind the inner wheel arch trim and just loosen the calliper then hang it on a bunge strap

the drive shaft 14/17mm bolt can also be very tight

takes more time but if the pinch bolt is stuck solid it may be the only way and also you will knock it out a lot easier off the car

good luck which ever method you use and swear a lot it helps

[spartacus 68]

Thanks again. The drive shaft bolt is already out as I'm replacing the CV boot. I fitted a cheap rubber CV boot on the driver's side and it's fine - but I did the passenger side a couple of years ago and used genuine GKN driveline parts. Rubber already shows signs of deterioration. :zx11: Apparently Audi/VW use a manufacturer tool (VAS 6085). Gotta be worth it's weight in gold.

[JustinM3]

From past experience I'd have a new one at the ready, and cut the old one in 3 to remove it.

[Col]

Also a MAP gas blowtorch is way hotter than a propane or butane one. Allows you to get some proper heat into things.

A very worthwhile investment.

[a8 tech]

O back are we Big balls.What in hells teeth are you driving now:amish::moon:

[Col]

O back are we Big balls.What in hells teeth are you driving now:amish::moon:

A8 you old knobber !

I am driving a B5.5 Highline Passat Estate TDI now. The Wife has the CBTD.

You still still got the clunge smelling van ? :dunno:

[a8 tech]

I'm back in the a4 and upgraded the wife to a mark 5 golf.

I must admit the a4 is my oasis but miss the smell of the good old cheap van.

Glad to see you back on the forum clungebag

[spartacus 68]

The mechanic at my work is going to look at it tomorrow. He's going to use an oxy/acetylene torch - so that's what it's going to take to shift it. I did consider cutting the bolt, but wasn't sure if that would make matters worse, especially if a section wouldn't budge. I've used a decent marine grease on the other bolt prior to refitting. Managed to change the CV boot on that side on Sunday - so wasn't a complete waste of time.

[spartacus 68]

Mechanic at work managed to shift the bolt without heat. Having a ramp helps as he could whack it with a lump hammer and punch at the right height. Bolt eventually shifted. Replaced the upper control arms on the passenger side tonight when I got home. I noticed that the lowers seem a little sloppy when the strut was out.

If I drive forward, then reverse (and brake) I can hear a click. I changed the strut mounts, ARB bushes, links and upper control arms, so my money is on the lower arm bushings flexing. I did think it could also be engine or transmission mounts? Car now on 126k. Should have bought a kit and been done with it. Are the lower arms straight forward after popping the balljoints?

[rabbie1969]

just done this pinch bolt tonight, loadsa wd40, smacked the knuckle body many times with a hammer, removed the nut, more wd40, turned the steering wheel so the pinch bolt was at 90 degrees to the wheel arch, got a bit of 25mm brass bar which is about a foot long, held it against the end of the bolt and battered it with a 2lb hammer, it took a while but it moved a tiny bit at a time till i finally got it flush with the face, then i used a heavy pointed chisel thing and drove it thru further till it came loose. It did not come out easy but i got there in the end.

now i need to remove the bolt up top for the forward control arm, it looks as though you cant get it out without removing the mounting plate on the top of the strut. I need to invest in a 16mm spanner first.

[spartacus 68]

now i need to remove the bolt up top for the forward control arm, it looks as though you cant get it out without removing the mounting plate on the top of the strut. I need to invest in a 16mm spanner first.

You need to drop the strut down to get the control arms off. A good tip is to fit the new arm so it's parallel with the old one, then vice-versa. Otherwise you'll install the new arms at the wrong angle and goose the new bushes in a short period of time. The lower strut is secured with an 18mm bolt. Also remove 3 bolts in engine bay for the strut to drop. If it's got sports suspension you will probably get away with out compressing the coiled spring, otherwise you'll need spring compressors.

One last tip - use a decent marine grease on the new control-arm ball-joint and new strut pinch bolt.

This is quite a good video - although don't tighten the control arms afterwards - as you need the weight of the car to give the correct height/angle.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OtwR4bgA_x0

[yaman]

The lower strut is secured with an 18mm bolt. If it's got sports suspension you will probably get away with out compressing the coiled spring, otherwise you'll need spring compressors.

Spring compressors are not needed, just push the hub down till the strut
clears the arm

Regards
Jim

[rabbie1969]

You need to drop the strut down to get the control arms off. A good tip is to fit the new arm so it's parallel with the old one, then vice-versa. Otherwise you'll install the new arms at the wrong angle and goose the new bushes in a short period of time. The lower strut is secured with an 18mm bolt. Also remove 3 bolts in engine bay for the strut to drop. If it's got sports suspension you will probably get away with out compressing the coiled spring, otherwise you'll need spring compressors.

One last tip - use a decent marine grease on the new control-arm ball-joint and new strut pinch bolt.

cheer mate that video link is very useful but as you say they need tightened at road level, what an easy way to do this 'safely'? I thought there would be more to removing the strut but it seems not too hard to do.


Spring compressors are not needed, just push the hub down till the strut
clears the arm

Regards
Jim

thanks for the tip jim, the car will have stands supporting it so i can push the hub down safely.

[apkelleher]

To set the upper control arms so as not to stress the bush when unjacked, Haynes says a 47mm gap between the front edge of the mounting bracket and the arms is required.

BTW not using Topran parts are you? Just failed MOT on ball joint wear 18 months after fitting.

[rabbie1969]

To set the upper control arms so as not to stress the bush when unjacked, Haynes says a 47mm gap between the front edge of the mounting bracket and the arms is required.

BTW not using Topran parts are you? Just failed MOT on ball joint wear 18 months after fitting.

hi cheers, is that mounting bracket the same as the knuckle with the pinch bolt, ie leave a gap, tighten bolt, pull arm down into knuckle and tighten in position?

i dont know what the part make is, im not fussy as im selling it within the week but thanks for the heads up matey.

cheers.

[rabbie1969]

thanks for the help guys i got the job done no problem, i had measured the gap between the balljoint pin and the knuckle before removing, so when i refitted the new one i set it to the same size so it was sitting at the same angle. It was easier than i thought it would be which is always nice lol :approve:

[Arrrr Jimlad]

Does this bolt have to be removed to do a front coil spring on an B5 1.9tdi?
Looking to do one on Sunday, already got a bolt just in case (1.98 from my local EuroCarParts)
Really hope it doesn't turn out to be a pig,

[mumutley]

Spray the bolts with loads of WD40
Once the nut is removed try turn the bolt, if this does not work turn steering full opposite lock so the front of the control legs is facing you (ie the pinch is running back to front)
Get a piece of steel bar or similar and place it on the arm were the pinch bolt goes through and hit it, this helps shock the rust in side the hole.
If need it apply more WD40 and then try and turn the bolt again.
This is worth repeating several times is required. Do NOT hit the bolt on the end of the thread the bolt will swell up then will NOT go through the hole.
As a last resort use heat but beware the rubber on the ball joint on the control arms will possible catch fir and it stinks

Watch the you tube video from earlier in this posting, bit violent with gas torch though
Good luck

[Withnail]

As I've not seen it mentioned here, something which I'd suggest is to have a couple of stubby flat-blade screwdrivers to hand. Once you have removed the nut these can be driven in (alongside the bolt which is still in place). Depending on whether you get any initial movement on the bolt or not, the slight opening of one or both of the slots (don't go mad with it obviously as you don't want to damage the casting) should bring the complete length of the bore more into line, increasing the ease with which the bolt can be slid out. I am pretty sure I used an impact wrench as well and both sides of my N reg example (the first time they'd been undone in 150k) came out without too much aggravation. Whether or not the impact was essential I don't know, but it's always more fun... My other suggestion is that buying a kit and blitzing everything (as I was initially tempted to do) is not the way to go. Better to be selective about what needs doing and pay £50/whatever for the OE arms individually.